Many years ago I drove from the Northernmost tip of Sweden all the way down to the Cote d'Azur - the French mediterranean coast. I had been driving around Scandinavia for many months (I wonderful place to go with a campervan by the way). I knew that my van was due for a service, so I took it to a little French garage. The fellow there rang me in dismay and told me to come right over just a few hours after I had dropped the van off. When I arrived, all four disc brakes were crumbled, and broken, and lying in rust heap on the ground. He told me that the disc brakes had completely disintegrated due to the road salts in Scandinavia. It had been extremely dangerous driving on them as they could have fallen off at any moment on my drive.
Rust is a van-killer. A little bit is manageable, too much of it could lead to the demise of your van. It's important to deal with rust at the outset. It's one of the very first things you need to do when you buy a van for conversion. In this guide I will show you how to prevent or rid your van from rust to help it last much longer.
Index
Shane, the founder of The Van Conversion, is a campervan professional dedicated to helping people transform ordinary vans into homes on wheels. He has authored Roaming Home, and teaches The Van Conversion Course, guiding many people through their van builds. Shane also writes The Van Conversion Newsletter, where he shares practical tips and insights. After completing two van builds and living on the road full-time since 2020, he is passionate about sharing his expertise with others.
This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you click a product link and buy anything from the merchant (Amazon, eBay, etc.) we will receive a commission fee. The price you pay remains the same, affiliate link or not. By using these links, you are helping us to continue writing free educational content. To understand our policies on content, affiliate commissions, and liability, please review our Terms of Use.
Note: Did you know you can get a free electrical wiring diagram by signing up for The Van Conversion Newsletter?
Supplies List
 | For driving and drilling |
 | For protecting bare metal from rust |
 | For physically removing the rust |
 | |
 | For repairing holes in your van |
 | For cleaning surfaces |
 | Dissolves rust |
 |
Rust: the Silent Enemy
Rust is more than just a cosmetic issue—it's a serious threat to the longevity and safety of your van. Rust forms through oxidation, where iron reacts with oxygen and moisture. For vans, which are often exposed to rain, humidity, and road salts, rust is inevitable unless addressed early.
The Real Cost of Rust
Globally, rust-related corrosion accounts for about 10-15% of vehicle maintenance costs, and for van owners, it can lead to costly repairs.
I personally have spent £1,000 getting a professional rust removing job to clean up my van just so it could pass the MOT. Furthermore, they quoted me £3,000 to do a full and lasting job (ie. completely re-weld the base). Unfortunately my old Transit van has become a bit of a rust bucket...
In vanlife communities many people discuss rust repairs that can cost as much as £1,500 ($2,000) for severe cases.
This doesn’t account for the downtime and safety concerns that rust can introduce. Rust can quickly spread and compromise key structural components, making the van unsafe to drive and even leading to failed inspections.
Vulnerable Areas
The underside of a van, which is constantly exposed to water and road salts, is particularly prone to rust. If untreated, rust can eat through body panels and the van's framework, causing expensive damage and potentially putting your entire van at risk of scrapping.
Certain other areas of your van are particularly vulnerable to rust due to constant exposure, these include the wheel arches, door sills, and around the windows.
Early detection and prevention are key to minimizing long-term damage and ensuring your van’s longevity.
Preventative Rust Maintenance
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Preventing rust is critical for keeping your van in top condition, and it’s much easier and cheaper than repairing rust damage.
Here’s a breakdown of the most effective ways to prevent rust:
Regular Washing and Cleaning: Dirt, road salt, and moisture all contribute to rust. Regularly wash your van, especially during the winter months or after driving on salted roads. Pay special attention to the underside of the van, where road salt can easily build up. Using a pressure washer is particularly effective for cleaning hard-to-reach areas.
Underbody Protection: Applying a protective sealant to the underside of your van can prevent rust from taking hold. Waxoyl and Dinitrol are popular underbody seal products. They create a thick, durable layer that repels water, salt, and road debris. Waxoyl is great for treating both existing rust and preventing new rust, while Dinitrol is often recommended for professional-grade, long-lasting protection.
Rust Inhibitor Sprays: Spraying rust inhibitors on vulnerable areas like wheel arches, door sills, and seams adds an extra layer of protection. CorrosionX and Fluid Film are well-known rust inhibitors that create a water-resistant barrier, preventing rust from forming. These products are easy to apply and can be used for annual maintenance to keep your van protected.
Waxing the Exterior: Waxing your van’s exterior every six months helps protect the paint and seals the metal from the elements. A high-quality carnauba wax like Meguiar’s Ultimate Wax forms a hard protective layer, safeguarding the paint and preventing chips or scratches that expose metal to moisture.
Touching Up Paint: Even small chips and scratches can expose the metal underneath to air and moisture, starting the rusting process. Use a rust-preventative primer such as Rust-Oleum Automotive Primer to touch up any exposed metal, followed by a matching paint coat to seal it. Though not made for vehicles, I have simply used some Hammerite metal paint for this job in the past.
Storing Your Van Properly: If possible, store your van in a dry, sheltered place to reduce exposure to moisture. If indoor storage isn't an option, consider using a breathable van cover to keep the van dry while preventing condensation buildup.
By implementing these preventative measures, you can significantly extend the life of your van and avoid costly rust repairs. Regular maintenance is key to keeping rust at bay, especially if you live in a wet or coastal area.
Evaluating the Severity of Rust
Before diving into rust repairs, it’s important to assess how severe the rust is. Rust can range from superficial surface rust to deep, structural damage that compromises the integrity of your van. Understanding where your van’s rust falls on this spectrum will help you decide the best course of action—whether it's a DIY repair or a professional job.
Levels of Rust Severity
Surface Rust: This is the most common and least severe type of rust. It usually appears as small patches of reddish-brown rust on exposed metal surfaces, caused by oxidation. Surface rust can often be removed easily with light sanding and treated with rust inhibitors and paint.
Scale Rust: If surface rust is left untreated, it begins to penetrate deeper into the metal. This leads to scale rust, where the metal surface begins to flake and pit. While still repairable, this type of rust requires more intensive work, such as grinding and filling, to restore the metal's integrity.
Penetrating Rust: This is the most severe stage of rust, where the corrosion has eaten through the metal, creating holes and weakening the structure of the van. At this point, sections of the van may need to be cut out and replaced, often requiring professional welding.
How to Measure Rust Severity
To measure the severity of rust damage, one method is to check the metal thickness. If more than 25% of the original metal thickness is lost due to rust, structural integrity is compromised.
Here's a rough guideline for rust evaluation:
Rust Type | Appearance | Metal Thickness Loss | Action Needed |
Surface Rust | Red-brown spots, no flaking | Minimal (<5%) | Sanding, rust inhibitors, and repainting |
Scale Rust | Flaking, pitting on the surface | Moderate (5-25%) | Grinding, filling, and repainting |
Penetrating Rust | Holes, significant corrosion | Severe (>25%) | Metal replacement, welding, professional help |
Testing for Rust Depth
To assess rust depth, use a rust pick or screwdriver to lightly poke at the rust spots. If the metal feels soft or you can easily push through it, the rust has penetrated deeply and likely requires more than just a surface repair. If the rust is confined to the surface, you can sand it down and treat it yourself.
When to Call a Professional
If you notice penetrating rust or extensive scale rust, it’s best to consult a professional. Structural components, such as the van’s frame or chassis, require expert attention if rust has weakened them. Welding and metal replacement should be done by someone with experience, as improper repairs can lead to unsafe driving conditions. This is what I needed to do when the rust in my van got too bad - unfortunately it had spread across most of the base of the vehicle.
By accurately evaluating the severity of rust, you can determine the right approach and ensure that your van remains both safe and functional for years to come.
Four Ways to Repair Rust Holes in a Van
Excess rust can frequently leave holes dotted around, it is important you fill in these holes before starting your conversion.
There are four ways to repair rust holes in a van:
Welding
Fibreglass
Body filler kit
Metal Epoxy putty
In this article, we will focus on how to repair rust holes using metal epoxy putty - it's a really easy and really cheap van rust treatment. Though we will also examine the other methods.
For effective rust removal, you will first need to strip your campervan bare. This means removing all interior and exterior panels / plastic trimming and the flooring that came with the van. After removing all the rust from your van, you will never look at a painted vehicle the same. There’s so much rust under all that paint.
How to Remove Rust from a Van with Metal Epoxy Putty
Step 1: Sand down the rust
To remove the rust, you will need a drill with a wire brush bit. Whilst you could do the job with sandpaper alone, it would probably take a very, long time and leave you with a rather sore back.
Sand back a centimetre or so on each side of the rust spot to ensure you erase any trace of rust.
Step 2: Apply Rust remover
To remove any remaining rust, apply some Rustins Rust Remover. This is a rather pungent liquid that is excellent at dissolving surface rust from steel and iron. Rustins and Hammerite are the two best-known brands of rust remover.
The duration of time it takes to dissolve the rust using rust remover depends on the severity of the rust on your van. Light rust takes around 30 minutes to dissolve, while heavy rust can take up to 24 hours.
Apply the rust remover to a microfiber cloth and wipe the metal with it. The rust remover will remove surface rust and stop it from spreading and doing any further damage.
Safety note: Always wear gloves, mask, and protective glasses while applying rust remover. It's a flammable vapour that can damage your eyes and burn your skin.
Step 3: Repair the holes
Once you remove the rust, you may have a hole in the place where the rust once was. You can fill up these holes using metal epoxy putty.
When mixed, the epoxy forms an industrial-strength polymer compound that you can mould into any shape. You can use it to repair or patch up any steel or iron component. Think of it like metal playdough!
To apply it, mould it in your hands until it’s warmed up, then apply it on the inside and underside of the campervan. Leave it to dry for 24 hours.
Safety note: Again, wear gloves and a mask. Make sure that your protective wear covers your skin to safeguard you from epoxy. It’s toxic and many people find they get faint-headed if they don't wear a mask.
Step 4: Sand the metal epoxy putty
After 24 hours, the epoxy will harden and become rigid. When this happens, smoothen the metal surface by sanding down the excess putty with sandpaper or with a random orbital sander.
Step 5 (Optional): Use a primer
Now that the rust is gone, you need to repaint your campervan. Before painting it, add a primer layer to the metal. It will protect against future rust. This step is optional because many metal paints (next step) already come with primer in the paint.
Step 6: Apply metal paint
For excellent results, use Hammerite white metal paint (or similar). It provides a smooth finish and protects metal from further rusting. Make sure to paint both the top and underside of the epoxy putty.
Step 7 (Optional): Apply Underbody Seal to the bottom of the van
If the bottom of your van is in poor condition, you might want to do a proper job with an underbody seal. It gives heavy-duty protection for the underside of your campervan and other high-impact areas that are exposed to various things like stones, water, and corrosion.
Note: For effective, long-term rust removal, carry out regular checks to maintain a rust-free campervan.
Fixing Rust Holes with Fibreglass
Fibreglass is a popular and effective method for repairing rust holes in a van, especially for non-structural areas like body panels or door sills. It's a relatively inexpensive solution and, when done properly, can create a strong, durable patch that resists future rust. Here’s how to fix rust holes using fibreglass.
Why Fibreglass?
Fibreglass is a composite material made of woven glass fibers and resin, which hardens into a tough, lightweight, and rust-resistant surface. It's commonly used for bodywork repairs because it’s easy to mold, lightweight, and bonds well to metal surfaces. While fibreglass doesn’t provide the same structural strength as welding, it’s a great option for fixing smaller rust holes in areas that don’t carry heavy loads or stresses.
Step-by-Step Guide to Fixing Rust Holes with Fibreglass
1. Remove the Rust and clean the area
Remove the rust in the same manner as previously discussed in this article.
2. Apply Fibreglass Resin and Mat
Most fibreglass repair kits come with a fibreglass mat and resin. Cut the fibreglass mat to size, making sure it’s large enough to cover the hole with some overlap on the surrounding metal.
Step 1: Mix the fibreglass resin with the hardener as per the instructions on the package.
Step 2: Apply a layer of resin to the sanded area using a brush.
Step 3: Place the fibreglass mat over the hole and press it into the resin. Use more resin to soak the mat thoroughly, making sure it’s saturated and sticking to the metal.
Step 4: Add additional layers of fibreglass mat if needed to build up strength. Allow the resin to cure as per the manufacturer’s guidelines (usually a few hours).
3. Sand and paint the Repair
Once the fibreglass has cured and hardened, use sandpaper or a random orbital sander to smooth out the patch. The goal is to make the repaired area level with the surrounding metal, so it blends in seamlessly.
Once you have sanded it down, paint it with some metal paint. You can also use a primer before the paint coat for an extra layer of protection.
Step-by-Step Guide to Fixing Rust Holes with Body Filler Kit
Using a body filler kit is a common and effective way to repair small to medium rust holes in a van. Body filler, often referred to as Bondo (a popular brand), is a two-part compound that hardens to create a durable, paintable surface. It’s great for cosmetic repairs and is often used in conjunction with other rust removal methods to ensure a smooth, seamless finish. Here's how you can fix rust holes using a body filler kit.
Why Use Body Filler?
Body filler is designed to restore the shape and appearance of metal surfaces after rust or dents have been removed. Unlike fiberglass or welding, body filler is intended for smaller repairs and non-structural areas of the van. When applied correctly, body filler creates a smooth, paint-ready surface that can blend seamlessly with the rest of your van’s body.
Step-by-Step Guide to Fixing Rust Holes with a Body Filler Kit
1. Remove the Rust and clean the area
Remove the rust in the same manner as previously discussed in this article.
2. Prepare the Body Filler
Body filler kits come with two main components: filler paste and hardener. Mix the two components according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Typically, you’ll squeeze out a small amount of filler and add a portion of hardener (usually a golf-ball-sized amount of filler to a pea-sized amount of hardener). Mix thoroughly until you get a consistent color.
Tip: Work quickly, as body filler starts to harden within 5-10 minutes after mixing.
3. Apply the Body Filler
Using a spreader or plastic applicator, apply the mixed filler to the rust hole. Make sure to press it firmly into the hole, covering the surrounding metal for a smooth transition. Build up the filler in layers if necessary, ensuring the hole is fully filled.
Tip: Don’t over-apply; it’s better to use a few thin layers than one thick layer, as it will make sanding easier later.
4. Sand & paint the Filler
After the filler has fully cured (usually within 20-30 minutes, depending on the product), sand the area down to smooth out the surface. Start with coarse sandpaper (80-grit) and gradually move to finer grits (180-220 grit) until the filler is level with the surrounding metal.
For a perfectly smooth surface, use a random orbital sander if you have one, as it helps create an even finish.
Once you have sanded it down, paint it with some metal paint. You can also use a primer before the paint coat for an extra layer of protection.
Fixing Rust Holes with Welding
Welding is the most durable and permanent solution for repairing rust holes in a van. It involves cutting out the rusted section of metal and replacing it with a new piece of metal that is welded in place. This method is ideal for larger holes or structural areas where strength and longevity are essential. Welding provides a solid, long-lasting repair that’s resistant to further rusting when done correctly. Here’s how the process works and why it’s considered the gold standard for rust repairs.
Why Use Welding?
Welding is the only method that restores the van’s structural integrity when dealing with large rust holes, especially in load-bearing areas like the chassis, frame, or suspension mounts. By bonding new metal to the van, it ensures the repair is as strong as the original body. Unlike body filler or fiberglass, welding doesn’t just cover up the damage—it replaces it entirely.
Step-by-Step Guide to Fixing Rust Holes with Welding
1. Cut Out the Rust
The first step in any welding repair is to remove the rusted metal completely. Use a grinder or cut-off wheel to carefully cut around the rusted area, ensuring you remove all the corroded metal. It’s essential to cut beyond the rusted part to reach clean, solid metal, as any rust left behind will continue to spread.
Tip: Create a clean, even opening for the new metal to be welded into place.
2. Prepare a Patch Panel
Once the rusted section is removed, you’ll need to create a patch panel that matches the hole. Cut a piece of sheet metal to size, ensuring it slightly overlaps the hole for a secure weld. The thickness of the metal should match the van’s body, typically around 18 to 22 gauge (0.8-1.2mm) for body panels.
Tip: Use the removed section as a template for cutting the new metal, if possible.
3. Weld the Patch Panel
Using a MIG welder or TIG welder, tack weld the new patch panel in place at several points around the perimeter. This prevents the panel from warping due to the heat. Once it’s secure, proceed with a series of small, continuous welds around the edges, ensuring a solid bond between the new metal and the existing body.
Tip: Avoid welding continuously in one area, as excessive heat can cause the metal to warp. Instead, move around the perimeter of the patch in short bursts.
4. Grind the Welds
After the patch is fully welded, use a grinder or sander to smooth out the welds. The goal is to create a seamless transition between the new and old metal, so the repair is nearly invisible. Be careful not to grind too much, as this could weaken the weld.
5. Apply Primer and Paint
Once the weld is smooth, clean the area and apply a coat of rust-resistant primer such as Rust-Oleum Automotive Primer. This protects the new metal from future rust. After priming, repaint the area to match the rest of the van’s body. You should also apply some metal paint.
Optional: If the repair is on the underside of the van, consider applying an underbody sealant for added protection against moisture and road debris.
Pros and Cons of Using Welding
Pros:
Strength and durability: Welding is the strongest method for repairing rust holes, especially in structural areas. It restores the van’s original integrity and can last for decades if done properly.
Permanent solution: Unlike fillers or fiberglass, welding permanently replaces rusted metal, eliminating the need for future repairs in the same spot.
Resistant to rust: When combined with rust-proofing techniques, welding creates a repair that’s highly resistant to further corrosion.
Cons:
Requires skill and equipment: Welding is not a DIY-friendly method unless you have the right tools and experience. It requires specialized equipment like a MIG or TIG welder, and improper technique can lead to weak welds or warping.
Can be costly: Hiring a professional welder can be expensive, especially for large or complex repairs.
Time-consuming: Welding is a more involved process compared to other rust repair methods, taking more time to complete, particularly when preparing the patch panel and finishing the weld.
When to Use Welding
Welding is the best option for structural repairs where the strength of the van’s body is compromised by rust. This includes areas like the frame, suspension mounts, and door frames, where a strong, permanent bond is essential for safety. It’s also ideal for larger rust holes that can’t be easily or safely repaired using fillers or fiberglass.
While it’s more time-consuming and expensive than other methods, welding provides a long-term solution that restores your van to its original condition. If you’re dealing with significant rust damage or rust in structural areas, welding is the most reliable way to ensure your van remains safe and roadworthy for years to come.
Professional Help
If you’re not experienced with welding, it’s best to hire a professional. Poorly executed welds can weaken the repair, and excessive heat can warp panels, leading to further problems. A professional welder can ensure the job is done correctly, providing a strong, durable repair that stands the test of time.
Conclusion
I hope you found this guide to remove rust from your van conversion useful. You are well on your way to a beautiful self-build campervan.
Don't forget to subscribe to The Van Conversion Newsletter for everything you need to get started with your own van conversion (we'll send you a free wiring diagram when you join).
If you're looking for some guidance with your van conversion, you might be interested in our book Roaming Home, or in our online course The Van Conversion Mastery Course. You'll learn directly from our founder Shane how to convert a van into your dream home - no prior experience needed.
Until next time.