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A Complete Guide to Campervan Cladding and Flooring

Campervan cladding; The single step that takes your van from nothing to something. Cladding a van is definitely an emotionally rewarding process. In this article we will learn everything about campervan cladding: from the roof to the campervan wall panels. We will look at how to clad awkwards places like the side and back doors as well as how to build a campervan floor. We will also look at how to install campervan carpet.


I’m Shane, a van conversion professional dedicated to helping people transform ordinary vans into homes on wheels. I've authored Roaming Home, and teach The Van Conversion Course, guiding many people through their van builds. I also write The Van Conversion Newsletter, where I share practical tips and insights. After completing two van builds and living on the road full-time since 2020, I’m excited to share my expertise with you.


Now let's jump in and learn about campervan cladding!

Campervan cladding: complete guide

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Index

 

Note: Did you know that you can get a free electrical wiring diagram by signing up to The Van Conversion Newsletter 🙂

 

Design the campervan first

Before hopping into campervan carpentry, it is essential that you mock it up on paper or with CAD software first! Here is a full guide on campervan design that will help you get started. I highly recommend Vanspace3D for designing your campervan interior - it's an awesome drag n' drop CAD tool specifically for van conversions.


Campervan Cladding vs. Plywood

Broadly speaking, there are two options you can use for panelling the walls and roof of your campervan: cladding or plywood.

In our 2023 study, we found that the slight majority of people choose to ply-line their van, rather than cladding it with tongue & groove.

campervan plywood vs cladding

Tongue and groove cladding

Cladding a campervan gives a more rustic look than ply lining. It takes longer to install (and costs a little more), but is well worth the effort for the superb finish.

Campervan cladding

There are many different styles of cladding, including clapboard, dutch lap. beaded lap, shiplap, and the list goes on and on...


Campervan carpentry masterclass

For van conversions, most people choose to go with tongue & groove. It is easy to get hold of and easy to install. The cladding just pops together.

Types of campervan cladding

Ply lining

A ply lined panelling typically gives a more modern feel. It is normally quicker and cheaper to install than cladding.


Grade:

There are four grades of plywood: A, B, C, and D. In that order, they go from the highest quality to the lowest quality. Lower grades than A will start to have some knots / point of weakness.


'Marine plywood' is considered to be of very high grade - it is cross-laminated (each ply is perpendicular to the last) making it capable of withstanding the elements better.


Number of ply:

Plywood consists of veneers of wood that are glued together.


3-ply is the most common for campervan wall panels.

Number of ply campervan

Veneer:

People often opt to use decorative plywood (also known as veneered or furniture plywood) for campervan wall panels. This gives a finish that looks great and provides a lot of resistance to wear and tear. It typically has a glossy texture. It is the standard in professionally built campervans and caravans.

Campervan veneer plywood

If you choose to use regular plywood over decorative plywood, make sure you finish the wood to protect it! Typically this is done with paint.


A great benefit of ply lining a van (particularly with decorative plywood) is that it acts as moisture barrier - a protective layer to keep your sacred insulation dry! You can read all about insulation and moisture barriers here.


NOTE: Do not use MDF or particle board for ply lining a campervan. They are brittle, heavy, and susceptible to moisture.


Other types of campervan cladding

Tongue and groove cladding or ply lining are the two most common techniques employed in van conversions. However self-builds are all about creativity! With that in mind...


Scrap wood / Pallet wood

Some people opt to panel their van using scrap wood or pallet wood. I salute thee. However you must beware with this method!


This type of wood typically has a high moisture content and will warp over time as it dries. This can frequently lead to cracks in the wood appearing, particularly if there is a cross batten restricting movement.


Scrap wood or pallet wood also tends to be very heavy, something not to be overlooked when building a campervan.


The final word of caution is that scrapwood can frequently contain wood worm, the wood-eating larva of many species of beetle.

Wood worm

However, if you manage to avoid the pitfalls above, a scrap wood van can give a very bohemian look.

@our_venturing_van
@our_venturing_van

Slatted

Slatted cladding is pretty rare, but when it is pulled off well, it looks incredible!

Slatted cladding by @_indigo_and_olive_
Slatted cladding by @_indigo_and_olive_

Cost Analysis of Campervan Cladding Options

Choosing the right cladding material for your campervan not only impacts the aesthetics and functionality but also affects your budget. Here’s a breakdown of the cost of various cladding materials based on factors like material type, thickness, and installation time.


Cost per Square Meter by Material

Material Type

Cost per m²

Weight (kg per m²)

Durability

Aesthetic

Installation Difficulty

Tongue & Groove Wood

€10-€20

5-7 kg

High

Rustic/Warm

Medium

Plywood (3-ply)

€5-€12

4-6 kg

Medium

Modern/Flat

Easy

Marine Plywood

€20-€40

6-8 kg

Very High (Waterproof)

Clean/Durable

Medium

Composite Panels

€25-€50

3-5 kg

High (Lightweight)

Sleek/Modern

Easy

Reclaimed Wood

€5-€15

7-9 kg

Medium (Can warp/crack)

Rustic/Bohemian

Difficult (Variable sizes)


  • Tongue & Groove: Mid-range cost and higher labor but provides a warm, cabin-like look.

  • Plywood: Economical and fast to install, often the choice for budget builds.

  • Marine Plywood: A durable, waterproof option, suitable for humid areas like bathrooms or kitchens.

  • Composite Panels: Lightweight and modern but come at a premium cost.

  • Reclaimed Wood: Budget-friendly, though installation can be challenging due to variability in quality.


How to install campervan cladding

Screws vs. Cladding clips

Campervan cladding is typically attached to wooden furring (battens of timber that run down the length of the van).

Screws vs. cladding clips

Cladding can be attached to the furring using two methods: screws or cladding clips.


Screws are the simplest method, you simply screw the tongue and groove to the furring with a self tapping screw.


If you really don't want the screwhead to be visible in your campervan, you could opt to use cladding clips. They are a nifty way to install campervan cladding. However, it should be noted that this method adds double the time to an already lengthy process!

Cladding clips

An alternative to using cladding clips, while still hiding the head of the screw could be to countersink the screw and use wood plugs to hide the hole.

wood plugs


What size tongue and groove to use

8 to 10mm tongue and groove cladding is typically used for van conversions.


How to save weight

Weight is typically at the forefront of many a van converter's mind. There are a few things you can do when cladding a van to reduce weight.


Tip 1: Firstly, and somewhat intuitively... Don't use heavy wood to clad! This means pallet wood, hardwood, laminboard, among others.


Tip 2: Go as thick as you need, but no thicker. 8mm tongue and groove or 3-ply plywood will do.


Tip 3: Don't install campervan wall panels where they won't be seen. ie. you could skip cladding behind the kitchen sink or inside storage lockers.


vanspace

Staggering joints

When cladding, it is important to stagger the joints in the wood. It provides a stronger campervan wall panel and looks way better!

Staggered cladding joints

On the topic of aesthetics, the cladding on the roof, floor, and walls should all run in the same direction - typically this is up the length of the van. This looks a lot better than cladding that is straight in one place and side on in others.


Campervan carpet

Before hopping into the cladding... If you want your van conversion to look really great, you will want to install campervan carpet first (also known as autocarpet)! This will give a really nice finish to any exposed metal or ugly surfaces that the cladding won't cover. Campervan carpet is a thin, stretchy carpet that is very common in cars.


Campervan carpet is stuck to a surface using spray contact adhesive. After you have stuck the carpet down, you can remove air bubbles by using a squeegee tool. Make sure you use a mask and gloves when apply spray adhesive!


Take your time when cutting the campervan carpet, a patchy job will be very evident when it is finished (from personal experience...). Better to measure well and cut right.

Campervan carpet
Installing campervan carpet

Campervan wall panels

Before installing campervan wall panels, you should have already insulated your van.


The cladding for the campervan wall panels is attached to wooden furring that runs vertically up the walls of the van. There will normally be three levels of furring (due to the curvature of the van): lower, middle, and upper.


The furring is screwed into the metal of the van using self-drilling screws or self tapping screws (requires drilling a pilot hole first). I actually prefer the second way (though it takes longer) as the screws are more sturdy once installed. I used 2X1 furring.

Cladding campervan walls
Support furring for the campervan wall panels

You should start cladding from the bottom and work your way up to the roof. Here are a front and side plan of how the cladding should look on your wall:

Campervan wall insulation and cladding

Note: There are certain places in the campervan cladding where electrical wiring will need to be fed through. The most common appliances you will need to account for are the Solar charge controller & monitor, plug sockets, dimmer switches, thermostat, and leisure batteries. Before installing the cladding, make sure you pre-cut these in the wood.

Leave space for electrics when cladding
Wiring through the cladding

Note: Installing tongue and groove can be tricky at times - it's finicky business when the cladding just won't slot together! A rubber mallet makes the job a lot easier - just lightly tap the cladding and they will pop together.


Moisture Control and Vapor Barriers in Campervan Cladding

Managing moisture in a campervan is essential to prevent mold, mildew, and rot, especially in tight spaces where condensation easily forms. Installing a vapor barrier between insulation and cladding helps protect against moisture buildup.


Condensation Risks

Condensation occurs when warm, moist air meets cold surfaces like van walls. Daily activities like cooking and breathing can produce 1-3 liters of moisture inside a campervan​. Without moisture control, this can lead to wood rot and insulation degradation.


What is a Vapor Barrier?

A vapor barrier is a material that reduces the passage of moisture through walls. The permeability of vapor barriers is measured in perm ratings; the lower the rating, the better the moisture resistance.

  • Polyethylene sheeting (6 mil) or reflectix: A common barrier with a 0.06 perm rating, effective at blocking moisture​.

  • Closed-cell spray foam: Serves as both insulation and a vapor barrier, with a perm rating of 0.2 to 1.


Installing a Vapor Barrier

  • Install 6-mil polyethylene sheeting or reflectix over insulation, overlapping seams by at least 6 inches, and sealing them with moisture-resistant tape.

  • Ensure the barrier covers the entire surface, especially around doors and windows, to stop moisture entry.


Ventilation

While vapor barriers are crucial, ventilation also helps control condensation. A roof vent can expel up to 500 cubic feet of air per minute (CFM), reducing moisture buildup inside the van.



Campervan ceiling cladding

After you have finished cladding the campervan wall panels, next up is the ceiling!


You will find 4-5 metal structural support beams running up the length of your van. The wooden furrings will be bolted to these support beams. Drill into the metal support beams on each side of the metal so that we can slot a bolt through. Drill a hole in the metal of size M6 or M8.


Drill the same sized hole (M6/M8) in the appropriate location on the timber furring and slot a long M6/M8 bolt through the wood and metal. Screw a nut on to secure it in place.

Installing campervan roof furring

Note: Use a bolt running right through, not a screw.

Use a bolt, not a screw

Next, screw the cladding into the furring which will hold it in place. Make sure to cut holes (with a hole saw) corresponding to where your puck lights will go.

Campervan roof cladding

After you have installed the roof cladding, you will notice gaps on either side when the walls and roof meet. You can cover this gap in a really tasteful manner by using stripwood (also known as decorative timber). Strip wood is simply lengths of thin wood that is sometimes shaped ornately (manufacturer has used a fancy router bit)

Fixing campervan cladding gap
Covering the corner gap with strip wood

Campervan door panelling

Cladding  on the back doors
Cladding on the back doors

Cladding the back and side doors of a campervan is a little different to the roof, walls, and floor. Instead of attaching the cladding to wooden furring, we instead screw the cladding directly into the metal of the van.


This can be done using self-drilling screws or self tapping screws (requires drilling a pilot hole first). I opted to use self-drilling screws in my van conversion, but in retrospect I would have preferred self-tapping screws as the screws are more sturdy once installed.

Cladding on the side door
Cladding on the side door

Campervan Floor

The majority of the work for installing a campervan floor is actually done in the insulation phase (the floor furring, insulation, and sub-floor). So all that is left for us to do is to install the floorboards!

Installing a campervan floor

By a country mile, your best bet for installing a campervan floor is to use laminate flooring. Laminate flooring is commonly used in houses and you can pick it up at most DIY shops. Laminate floor is very easy to install (tongue and groove style), it is heavy duty, scratch proof, and waterproof. In my opinion it is a must.

Laminate flooring
Laminate flooring

To install the laminate campervan floor, you just need to squirt some wood glue on the subfloor and then stick down the laminate on top. Put some heavy weights on it overnight to seal the deal.


I chose a darker color wood for my campervan floor and I love it!


Finishing

After you have finished cladding your van you will need to apply some finish to protect it. This is normally done at the tail end of the build, once all the furniture has been installed. You can learn all about wood finishes and colorants here.


I personally used Danish oil on all tongue and groove in the van. I applied it in 3 layers using a microfiber cloth. Leave 24 hours between each coat. There is a lot of off-gassing when applying finishing oil, so it is important that keep the van well ventilated when using it and wear a mask!

A white finish really brightens up the interior of a van conversion; @nordvind.camper
A white finish really brightens up the interior of a van conversion; @nordvind.camper

Adding decorative finishes to your campervan cladding not only enhances aesthetics but also protects the wood from wear. With a variety of finishes available, you can achieve a personalized look while improving durability.


1. Wood Stains and Paints

Wood stains enhance the natural grain of the cladding, offering a rustic or modern finish depending on the color. Choose oil-based stains for better penetration and durability.


Paints (preferably low-VOC) can offer a sleek finish and extra moisture protection. Light colors can make the van feel more spacious, while darker shades offer a cozier feel.


2. Finishing Oils

Danish oil or tung oil penetrate deep into the wood, providing protection while maintaining the wood’s natural look. Apply 3 coats, with a 24-hour drying period between each coat.


3. Whitewash or Distressed Finishes

A whitewashed finish gives a bright, airy look while still showcasing the wood grain. This is ideal for small spaces, making the van feel more open.


A distressed finish offers a vintage, weathered aesthetic. Achieve this by sanding down painted cladding or using special distressing tools.


4. Protective Sealants

Apply a polyurethane or polycrylic finish to provide a layer of protection from scratches and moisture. These finishes are available in matte, satin, or glossy options, depending on your preferred look.


Conclusion

And that's all there is to know about campervan cladding!

Campervan carpentry masterclass

Don't forget to subscribe to The Van Conversion Newsletter for everything you need to get started with your own van conversion (I'll send you a free wiring diagram when you join).


If you're looking for some guidance with your van conversion, you might be interested in our book Roaming Home, or in our online course The Van Conversion Mastery Course. You'll learn directly from me how to convert a van into your dream home - no prior experience needed!


Until next time,

Shane ✌️

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