The Ultimate Van Conversion Guide

Dreaming of vanlife but don’t know where to start? We’ve got you covered.

This step-by-step guide walks you through every stage of the conversion process—from planning and design to electrics, insulation, plumbing, carpentry, and beyond.

Everything is broken down into clear, easy-to-follow sections, with tools, materials, and step-by-step instructions to take you from dream to reality.

Let's get started.

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Includes: Wiring Diagrams • Layout Plans • Plumbing Blueprints • Supplies List

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Build Stages

Every van conversion is split into stages, which should be followed in order. We've split our ultimate guide on how to convert a van into a camper into 10 build stages.

Click the "+" button for each stage below to learn all about it.

Laying the Groundwork for Your Van Life Dream

Legal and insurance requirements
Choosing and buying a base van
Budgeting and project management
Features and supplies lists
Designing the van layout

Planning Your Van Conversion

A well-planned van conversion is a successful van conversion. In this section, we'll highlight the important planning processes that you should square away leading up to the purchase of your van and the start of your build. Taking the time to lay this groundwork will give you a rock-solid starting point and avoid nasty surprises further down the line.

Our Van Conversion Mastery Course is a comprehensive, step-by-step guide to the entire process of converting a van, including:

Resources for planning your conversion
Supplies lists
Wiring, plumbing, carpentry, and metalwork diagrams
Video courses for all conversion stages

Start your van conversion right with the Van Conversion Mastery Course.

Take the Course

Legal and Insurance Requirements

Camper van insurance isn’t just an optional extra: normal car or van policies usually don’t cover fixed furniture, pop-tops, gas lines, or heating systems. A dedicated motorhome policy, however, protects both the vehicle and everything you’ve added to it, including unique benefits like overseas cover and contents insurance.

Special Considerations for DIY Conversions

It’s crucial to research insurance requirements before committing to a layout or build. Laws and insurer regulations vary by country (and by state in the US), so if your vehicle can’t be registered as a camper, you won’t be able to insure it as one. Our founder Shane learned this the hard way: he blocked off cab access with a kitchen installation and only later discovered bodily access was a requirement for a campervan policy in Ireland. Planning ahead avoids expensive fixes or bespoke insurance plans.

changing a tyre on an rv with roadside assistance

Image: Good Sam

Types of Coverage

Third party / Liability: Legally required at a minimum, covers other people’s property if you’re at fault.
Collision: Pays for damage to your own camper, regardless of fault.
Comprehensive: Covers collisions, fire, theft, and more—often with optional add-ons.
Personal effects: Protects valuables in your van, such as electronics or sports equipment.
Emergency expenses: Helps with unexpected costs like accommodation if your van’s unusable on the road.
European/International cover: Extends benefits abroad.
Agreed value: Lets you and the insurer fix a camper’s value, factoring in all those costly modifications.

Factors Affecting Insurance Costs

Several key factors affect insurance costs—vehicle age and type, usage frequency, driving record, storage conditions, and security measures—while self-builds with pricier or riskier components often command higher premiums. When choosing a policy, compare reviews on sites like Trustpilot, Clearsurance (US), and Which? (UK), and seek personal recommendations from social media and forums.

Recommended Providers

US: Roamly (campervan-focused), Progressive, Foremost, Good Sam, National General
UK: Adrian Flux, Caravan Guard, NFU Mutual, Comfort Insurance, Principal Insurance

Ultimately, insurance research is best done early in your build to avoid costly surprises. With the growing vanlife scene, more specialized policies are popping up all the time—so explore what’s out there, and find the coverage that fits you and your dream van best.

Our full article on campervan insurance contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Recommended van conversion insurance providers
Exclusive discounts
Lowering the cost of your DIY van conversion insurance policy
Temporary and seasonal insurance
Recommended comparison sites

Budgeting Your Van Conversion and Choosing the Right Base Van

Choosing the right van is the first exciting—but sometimes daunting—step in a campervan build. Before committing, think about the following:

Usage & Stealth: Will you park in cities (stealthy build to avoid trouble) or roam off-grid (exterior awnings and big solar panels)?
Full-Time vs. Part-Time: For full-time living, a high roof is essential, especially in cold or wet climates.
Space & Comfort: If you’re traveling with a partner, ensure your bed is long and wide enough. Insulation also reduces standing height, so consider a taller van if you expect frosty conditions.
Offroad and Overlanding: If you'll be traveling in countries with lots of open space where road infrastructure is limited, it's worth looking into a 4x4 van conversion. They're generally more expensive and harder to find, but if they're right for you, you'll reap the rewards.
Requirements: Making a list of requirements you have for your conversion will give you a clear idea in your head of the type of van you need to build.

Image: offroadclub.ru

Rent First

Try renting a camper to see if vanlife suits you. Outdoorsy (like Airbnb for campers) makes it easy to experience different layouts before you commit. You’ll learn what you love—and what you don’t need—saving money in the long run.

Budgeting

Follow a 70/30 or 60/40 split between van purchase and build, and add 30% to your build budget for wiggle room. We find that most people spend a median of €10,000 on their base vehicle (a bit more in the US), with a median of €5,000 on the conversion. Don’t forget extras like road tax, insurance, and vehicle inspections.

The graphs below show the spread of budgets for base vans and finished conversions that we saw in our 2023 Roaming Home study.

The Best Vans for Conversion

Mercedes Sprinter/VW Crafter: Highly reliable but more expensive.
Ford Transit: Very common, especially the high-roof L3H3.
RAM Promaster: The same size as a Sprinter, Crafter, or Transit, and the most popular van to campervan conversion in the US
VW Transporter: Classic, smaller, and beloved by weekend warriors.
Alternative Vehicles: Box vans, skoolies, and classic VWs can be cool but may require bigger budgets or special licenses.

The charts below give an overview of the most popular vans for conversion, as well as the most common years of manufacture, based on our 2023 Roaming Home study.

year and model of base van conversion charts.png

Finding a Solid Used Van

Check the service history and logbook.
Verify mileage and previous accidents.
Avoid outstanding finance—it becomes your debt if you buy it.
Ask a mechanic to inspect it thoroughly before handing over money.

Spending a bit more upfront on a dependable vehicle often saves you major repair bills later. By doing your research, setting clear goals, and testing the waters first, you’ll be well on your way to finding the perfect van.

Our full article on choosing among the best vans for conversion contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Requirements and features lists
Van cost breakdowns
Breakdowns of popular vans including the best small vans for camper conversion
Tips for buying a used van
Essential questions to ask and background checks to perform before you buy a van for vanlife

Project Management and Planning Your Van Conversion

Project management is vital for a successful van conversion. Not only does it save time and money, but it also helps you stay organized and reduces stress along the way. A great place to start is by setting up a proper system for note-taking and task management. This could be something like Notion—a free, all-in-one productivity app where you can build a supplies list, timeline, kanban boards, and daily to-do lists. If Notion isn’t for you, feel free to mix and match tools like Evernote, Trello, and Todoist; the key is having a solid system in place.

Shane has created a comprehensive, fully-featured Notion dashboard for making and organising your van conversion plans, including supplies lists, a timeline, kanban boards, to-do lists, and more. Check out this amazing project management tool here:

Laying Out Your Conversion

Create a master Supplies List with item prices, quantities, and links. This helps you estimate a rough budget.
Build a high-level timeline of tasks in chronological order (e.g., first “De-rust Van Interior,” last “Upholster Mattress”). Then add 30% extra time as a buffer.
Use deadlines to your advantage: tight timeframes can significantly boost productivity, thanks to Parkinson’s law (“Work expands to fill the time available”).

Daily To-do Lists

Write a manageable to-do list every evening.
Consider the “MIT” (Most Important Task) approach in the morning, or adopt a “1-3-5” or “1-2-3” rule for tasks of varying sizes.
Keep your list linked to your main project board, so you always know the “why” behind each day’s tasks.

Essential Productivity Tricks

Consistency: Work on your build a little bit every day, even if it’s just 30 minutes.
Gamification: Move tasks into “Done” on your kanban board, or drop paperclips in a jar to track your progress visibly.
Batching: Group similar tasks together (e.g., cut all wood first, then attach it) to save loads of time.
Environment Design: Keep your workshop tidy and tools easily accessible to avoid wasting time looking for gear.
Flow State: Minimize distractions, tackle moderately challenging tasks, and aim for extended periods of uninterrupted work to get into the zone.
Loss Aversion: Use something like Beeminder to bet on your own productivity—if you miss a goal, you pay.
Take Breaks & Get Help: Friends, family, good music, and the occasional rest can boost motivation and keep you on track.

By combining these techniques—staying consistent, leveraging the right tools, and keeping your eye on the bigger picture—you’ll transform what might feel like a massive project into a streamlined, efficient, and enjoyable journey.

Our full article on van conversion project management contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Step-by-step guides to creating your own camper van conversion Notion dashboard
Research techniques
Productivity strategies
Time budgeting tips

Designing the Layout for Your Van Conversion

Designing a campervan layout is one of the most exciting and creative parts of a van build. Like Steven Covey says in The 7 Habits of Highly Successful People, it helps to “begin with the end in mind.” By envisioning your layout upfront, you’ll stay motivated and ensure your camper is both beautiful and functional.

Five Steps to Van Design and Planning

Inspiration & Concept
- Gather ideas on Pinterest, Instagram, YouTube, or by chatting with other vanlifers.
- Create mood boards (physical or digital) and note down features you like.
- Make a must-have features checklist based on how you’ll use your van (full-time/part-time living, remote work, traveling alone or with a partner, cold climates, etc.).
Logistics
- Estimate costs early (van + materials + 30% for surprises).
- Plan the project outline—Gantt charts and kanban boards give you a solid overview which you can follow and add to over the course of your van conversion.
Initial Sketches & Layout
- Sketch a rough floor plan on paper (scaling helps: 1:5 or 1:20 for metric; 1:4 or 1:24 for imperial).
- Consider insulation thickness, bed orientation, and weight distribution.
Technical Drawings & CAD
- Software like SketchUp or Vanspace3D gives precise 3D models. Vanspace3D comes loaded with van templates and drag-and-drop features.
- Develop wiring, water, and gas schematics, keeping safety regulations in mind.
Feedback
- Post your designs online or ask seasoned converters for tips.
- Seek professional advice on electrics or gas, then revise if needed.

We highly recommend Vanspace3D as a tool for exploring and refining van conversion layouts. Vanspace3D allows you to create DIY camper van floor plans inside accurate 3D models of all popular base vans. The capability to drag and drop furniture modules around and save them for use in other mock-ups saves a huge amount of time and makes exploring and iterating on layouts a fun project. Check out Vanspace3D today and kickstart your van conversion.

Key Considerations

Working Remotely: You’ll likely need a proper table or standing desk.
Weather & Seasons: Plan for insulation, heaters, or extra fans if you’re venturing into extreme climates.
Stealth vs. Showy: City-dwellers may want a “builders van” look, while off-grid types can add visible extras like awnings.
Budget & Lifestyle: A big budget opens up features like heated showers or massive fridges, but simpler builds can still be awesome.
Family & Friends: Double beds, extra bunks, or even hammock hooks might be essential.
Personal Needs: From toilets and showers to library space and mood lighting, customize your van to fit who you are.

Testing the Layout

Measure your interior van dimensions thoroughly and lay painter’s tape down where fixtures (bed, kitchen, storage) will go.
If possible, place actual components or cardboard mockups inside to see how everything fits.

Renting a camper first (via Outdoorsy, for example) can help you discover what you really need—and what you can live without. By sketching, prototyping, and iterating, you’ll craft a layout that perfectly matches your travel style, budget, and sense of adventure.

Our full article on designing van conversion layouts contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

A pack of 30 free converted campervan blueprints
Inspiration boards
Supplies lists
Details on furniture dimensions
Tips for testing layouts for your van for vanlife

Having checked these items off, you should now have a very strong foundation from which to start your van conversion into camper project. You should have a base van ready and know about the legal and insurance requirements for the van conversion process. You might already have an insurer picked out. You should have an idea of your van conversion cost, detailed in a project management dashboard along with a supplies list, initial to-do list, and timeline. Finally, you should have finalised your interior layout.

With all of this ready to go, we can start on the first stage of the build: shaping your van's exterior metalwork.

Shaping the Backbone of Your Camper Van

Emptying, cleaning, and rust-proofing your van
Installing windows
Fitting a rooftop fan
Fitting water, gas, solar, and mains electricity inlets
Awnings, ladders, and spare wheel carriers

Metalwork

Now that you've got a van sitting in your driveway and a plan for the conversion, we can start the build. In this stage of our van conversion guide, we'll be cutting holes in the van's metalwork and fitting things like windows, roof vents, and inlets for electrical connections, water, and gas. We'll finish with optional extras like a roof rack for a van, ladders, and awnings. You can't cut into your van once it's insulated, so make sure you already have your electrical, water, and gas systems specced, at least as far as knowing the inlets you'll need and where they'll go.

Our Metalwork Masterclass is a comprehensive, step-by-step guide to this stage of converting a van, including:

Supplies lists
Installation diagrams and charts
Video courses for all steps

Get your camper van conversion metalwork right first try with the Metalwork Masterclass.

Supplies List

We'll start with a top-level supplies list for this section. This isn't exhaustive, and doesn't include small items like brackets, bolts, or materials for any wooden framing you might want to do. Make sure there's a good DIY shop nearby, as you'll be doing lots of trips.

A power drill of at least 500W

HSS drill bits

A jigsaw

Metal jigsaw blades

Bi-metal hole saw set

Metal file

Anti-rust metal paint

WD40

Flexible silicone sealant

Sealant gun

A selection of clamps

Mastic/butyl tape

White spirits

Wire brush drill bits

Rust remover

Painter's tape

For drilling holes and driving screws

For drilling through metal

For cutting straight and curved lines

For cutting through metal

For cutting large circular holes in metal

For filing burrs on exposed metal

For protecting cut metal edges from rust

For lubricating metal during cutting

For sticking fittings and sealing holes

For applying sealant

For holding things in place during drying

For forming flexible watertight seals

For cleaning surfaces

For mechanically removing rust

For dissolving rust

For protecting bodywork

Clearing Out and Prepping Your Van

The first step in the van conversion process is to prepare your van for all the work we'll be doing it. A clean, rust-free van is like a blank canvas onto which we'll paint our van modification layers. The first step is to pull everything out of the back of your van until you're left with bare metal on all four walls, the ceiling, the floor, and the doors. This might mean tearing up plywood lining or carpet. It's important to pull everything away in order to inspect your van for rust.

Images: andyandjane.com

Next, we remove the bulkhead. Most van conversion builders choose to remove the bulkhead to open up the space between the cab and the living area, allowing more movement, better light, and easier access. In many countries, it's actually a requirement that a campervan allows free movement between the front and back to be legally registered. Check your local regulations before doing anything permanent.

Removing the bulkhead is generally straightforward—just watch out for its weight. In a Ford Transit, you’ll find T-55 torx bolts holding it in place. A sturdy socket wrench with the right torx bit is essential because these bolts are tight. For a Sprinter, the bulkhead is fixed with blind rivets; drilling through their centers will release the sheet metal.

Renault Masters (and their siblings) mix torx screws with blind rivets, so you’ll be both unscrewing and drilling. The Ducato family has a blend of hex bolts, torx screws, and roundhead bolts—some bolts may need cutting with an angle grinder before you can unscrew them. Meanwhile, VW Transporters often only require removing a handful of torx screws.

Our full article on van conversion bulkhead removal contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Step-by-step instructions for removing the bulkhead from popular van models
Details on the insurance implications of removing your bulkhead

Rust Removal

Next comes rust removal. Rust is more than just a cosmetic annoyance—it’s a silent enemy capable of destroying your campervan from the ground up. Our founder Shane has personally spent £1,000 on rust removal just to keep his beloved van on the road. Trust us when we say: deal with rust ASAP.

Conduct a thorough inspection of your van, on the inside and out. This includes the most thorough inspection of the undercarriage you can, paying special attention to the wheel arches and door sills. Don't forget to pull up the carpeting in the cab footwells to check for rust here too.

Identify Rust Severity

Surface Rust: Easy to fix with light sanding and a rust inhibitor.
Scale Rust: Deeper flaking that requires grinding and filling.
Penetrating Rust: Holes or severely weakened metal that may need welding or part replacement.

Surface rust should be treated with sanding and rust remover, followed by a coating of anti-rust metal paint. Deeper rust needs to be cut out and repaired.

Image: andyandjane.com

Four Repair Methods

Metal Epoxy Putty
- Sand away the rust, apply rust remover, then fill holes with epoxy putty.
- Once cured, sand, prime (if needed), and paint.
- Great for smaller spots and cost-effective DIY fixes.
Fibreglass
- Ideal for non-structural holes.
- Layer fibreglass fabric and resin to create a durable patch that resists further corrosion.
Body Filler (Bondo)
- Perfect for cosmetic repairs on small-to-medium holes.
- Sand, fill, sand again, and repaint for a smooth finish.
Welding
- Best solution for structural areas or large holes.
- Permanently replaces rusted metal, restoring strength.
- Requires skill (or a professional) to ensure a safe, long-lasting repair.

Checking the undercarriage, wheel arches, and door sills at the start of your build will allow you to get rust sorted before it spreads and before you build anything on top of it. Always consider professional help if rust has compromised your van’s frame beyond surface or limited scale rust.

Our full article on rust treatment and removal contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

3 stages of rust
4 methods of van rust removal
Recommended products
When to call a professional

Installing Windows and Roof Components

With the rust managed, we can move to the second item in the van conversion build order and start cutting into the van. There's no going back now. We'll start with the big holes that need to be cut for windows and roof vents.

Installing Windows for a Mobile Home

Campervan windows are a must-have: we're building a van to live in after all, and windows brighten your interior, provide fresh air, and—if you’re in the UK—are a requirement for official campervan status. In our Roaming Home 2023 study, 87% of vanlifers installed at least one window. Here’s what to consider when choosing yours:

Image: Campervan HQ

Window Types

Fixed Windows: Cheapest and simplest, but offer no ventilation.
Sliding Windows: More affordable than awning windows, allow airflow, but can let in rain if you’re not careful with seals.
Awning/Hinged Windows: Swing open from the top, forming a rain canopy; pricier but reliable.
Vent Windows: Part fixed, part hinged flap. Highly secure and can be left open in the rain, though they’re harder to source and cost more.

Images: Campervan HQ

Thermal Performance

Windows compromise insulation—glass loses more heat than walls. Double-glazing and low-E coatings improve insulation significantly, while tinted windows keep your van cool and offer privacy. If winter travel is on the cards, fewer windows can help maintain warmth.

Other Factors

Tint: Blocks UV and prying eyes.
Material: Acrylic is lighter but often costlier; glass is cheaper but heavier.
Size: Big windows provide fantastic views, yet make it easier for thieves to break in, and can lead to heat loss in cold weather.
Number and placement: the sweet spot balances light and views with thermal efficiency, and is determined largely by climate.

Window Covers

Even double-glazed windows need some covering for both privacy and thermal efficiency. Blinds, Reflectix inserts, or dedicated insulated window covers help minimize heat transfer and condensation.

DIY vs. Professional Installation

DIY: Saves money and feels rewarding, but demands precision. You’ll need the right tools and patience to cut into your van and seal everything properly.
Professional: Costs typically range from £200–£500 per window, yet you get expert installation, a warranty, and peace of mind.

Ultimately, choose windows that suit your climate, layout, and budget. Install them carefully, paying special attention to the sealing, and you'll have a solid, watertight fitting which will stand the test of time.

Our full article on campervan windows contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Step-by-step guide to installing windows in your camper van conversion
Recommended windows for Sprinter van conversions and other popular vans
Properties of different window types
Placement choice
Van conversion parts shops for buying your windows

Installing Roof Vents

The other crucial ventilation element in your van conversion is roof venting. Opening a window introduces some airflow, but unless you've got windows on opposite sides of the van, you won't get much flow of air through the space. Without proper ventilation, your van becomes a hot metal box, and all those smells—cooking fumes, damp clothes, musty bedding—build up until it’s unbearable. A roof vent helps keep your interior fresh, cuts down on mold (and therefore protects your insulation and woodwork), and improves overall air quality. According to our Roaming Home study, 52% of vanlifers install a powered fan to manage airflow.

Image: fogcampers.com

Key Factors for Selecting a Campervan Fan

Airflow (CFM): A higher CFM means better ventilation, but may be overkill unless you’re in a very hot environment.
Power Consumption: Crucial for 12V systems. Popular fans like the Heng’s Vortex II and Maxxair Maxxfan Mini draw only around 2–3 amps.
Noise Levels: The Maxxfan Deluxe is relatively quiet on low settings (about 35 dB), while budget options can be louder (45–60 dB).
Unique Features:
- Rain Shield/Sensor: Some fans (e.g., Maxxfan Deluxe) come with built-in rain shields; others (Fantastic Vent 7350) have sensors that close automatically when it rains.
- Remote Control/Thermostat: Fans like the Maxxfan Deluxe and Fantastic Vent 7350 offer handy remotes and programmable temperature settings.
- Reversible Airflow: Allows you to bring fresh air in or push stale air out.

Skylights & Unpowered Vents

Skylights let in a lot of natural light from above—often more effectively than side windows—and can still help hot air escape if they open. They’re budget-friendly compared to powered vents and can sometimes be upgraded with a fan kit later. Just note that some skylights are purely “windows in your roof" which don't open for ventilation, so you’ll want a shade or cover for summer heat.

Floor Vents

For proper airflow, the hot air your fan extracts must be replaced by cooler air. Installing a floor vent is a great solution, since air beneath the van is shaded and cooler. Placing a floor vent opposite your roof vent—fan at the front, floor vent at the back (or vice versa)—establishes a nice cross-breeze. Choose a louvered or rotary vent so you can close it up in colder climates, preventing heat loss.

A well-planned vent setup transforms your campervan from a sweaty, smelly box into a breezy, inviting living space. Our full article on roof vents includes a step-by-step installation guide, recommendations for the best roof van for van use, buying guides, and details on alternatives like fans, air conditioning, and evaporative coolers.

Our full article on campervan roof vents contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Step-by-step guide to installing a roof vent in your camper van conversion
Recommendations for the best roof fan for van use
Buying guides
Details on alternatives like fans, air conditioning, and evaporative coolers

Installing Inlets and Drop-out Vents

Next in the metalwork section of our DIY van conversion guide is the cutting and installation of inlets and smaller vents. Installing any kind of external inlet—shore power, solar cable, water, or gas—is essential for a functioning campervan. Despite their different purposes, the process of cutting a hole in your van and securing each inlet is strikingly similar. Here’s a concise overview of what they do and how they’re installed.

Shore Power (Mains Hook-Up)

Allows you to plug into campsite or household mains electricity. This charges your leisure batteries and powers high-consumption devices (like heaters) without draining your battery bank.

Solar Cable Entry Gland

Provides a watertight channel for solar panel cables to enter the van. Essential if you want off-grid independence and don’t fancy drilling multiple holes for each cable.

Water Inlet Socket

Lets you fill your fresh-water tank from an external tap or hose. Certain types (e.g., Truma, Whale) also connect to pressurized mains water at campsites, giving you unlimited water flow.

Gas Filling Point

Used for refilling an on-board LPG system (e.g., Gaslow). Rather than swapping cylinders, you plug a pump hose directly into your van—handy for running gas stoves, heaters, or 3-way fridges.

Drop-out Vents

It's important that we also consider the installation of drop-out vents. In the section on fans, we already discussed the installation of secondary air vents near the floor of the van to encourage airflow. Drop-out vents are installed the same way, but their purpose is the opposite. A drop-out vent allows the evacuation of dangerous, heavier-than-air gases that might leak into your van conversion if something goes wrong; LPG from your gas tank or carbon monoxide from your deisel heater or woodburning stove. A drop-out vent is a legally-required component of any LPG installation in many countries.

Our full articles on gas, water, solar, and electrical inlets include product recommendations and comprehensive step-by-step intallation guides that you can also apply to the installation of drop-out vents.

Other Exterior Van Modification - Awnings, Ladders, Wheel Carriers

Awnings, ladders, and spare wheel carriers are all about expanding your van’s functionality and convenience. While each accessory has a unique purpose—creating outdoor shelter, reaching the roof, or carrying a spare tire—the installation process often follows a similar drill-mark-seal pattern. Here’s how they stack up.

Awnings

An awning transforms the cramped interior of your van into a breezy, sheltered outdoor living space. It’s perfect for relaxing in the shade, cooking in the rain, or keeping doors open without letting in scorching sun. In our view, an awning is almost essential because of how it improves the vanlife experience.

Images: Thule, MoonShade

How They're Installed

Choose a Location: Decide where on the side (or roof) the awning will mount, ensuring it won’t block doors or windows.
Mark & Drill: Position mounting brackets, mark the hole locations, then drill through the van’s metal.
Seal & Fasten: Treat raw edges to prevent rust and apply sealant before bolting the brackets firmly in place.
Attach the Awning: Secure the awning to the brackets and open it fully to confirm clearance and stability.

Our full article on van conversion awnings contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Product recommendations for different kinds of awning
A breakdown of common awning materials
Maintenance instructions
Step-by-step installation guide

Ladders

A ladder grants easy access to your roof—ideal for clearing snow off solar panels, cleaning, or using a rooftop deck. Both back door ladders and side ladders mount externally.

How They're Installed

Position & Mark: Hold the ladder in place, marking where the bolts will go.
Drill Pilot Holes: Always file and paint raw metal edges afterward.
Use a Backing Plate: Foam and a metal flange inside the van prevent damage to the door, spreading the load.
Seal & Secure: Apply sealant around bolts and tighten them up. Check for rattling once installed.

transit van with ladder and spare wheel carrier

Image: Campervan HQ

Our full article on converted campervan ladder installation contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Breakdowns of side-mounted vs. rear-mounted ladders
Product recommendations
Step-by-step installation guide

Spare Wheel Carriers

A spare wheel carrier is critical if your van didn’t come with one—or if the original underslung mount was removed. Mounting it on the back door keeps the wheel accessible and frees up under-van space for things like underslung water tanks.

How They're Installed

Select the Right Carrier: Bolt pattern must match your spare wheel.
Mark & Drill: Just like with ladders, locate bolt holes on the door.
Attach Backing Flange: A sturdy metal plate with foam padding spreads the wheel’s weight, prevents scratching, and maintains a watertight seal.
Seal & Tighten: Add sealant around the bolts before fully tightening. Finally, fit the wheel and consider using a protective cover.

Image: Campervan HQ

Our full article on converted campervan spare wheel carriers contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Breakdowns of different kinds of spare wheel carrier
Product recommendations
Step-by-step installation guide

You should now have a van that's empty, clean, and rust-free. You should have any extra windows fitted, a rooftop fan installed, and the appropriate inlets for the upcoming phases of your van conversion project. With all that done, we can move on to a really meaty stage of the build: the design and wiring up of your electrical system.

Energizing your Van Conversion

Understanding fusing and wiring
Choosing and installing a leisure battery
Setting up a solar charging system
Adding an inverter, split charger, and shore hook-up
Wiring up LED lighting and a 12V fuse box
Installing optional extras like air-con and a washing machine

Electrical System

With the metalwork finished, it's time to wire up your van's electrics. We'll be laying insulation on top of our electrical wiring, so make sure you've cut all the holes in your van that you want to and thoroughly tested every element of your electrical system before moving on from this stage. We'll start with planning our electrical system layout and going over wiring, grounding, and fusing. We'll then move on to the essential components of any van conversion electrical system: leisure batteries for camper vans, a solar setup for RV use, split charging, and lighting. We'll finish with optional extras like inverters, a shore power connection, air-con, and washing machines.

Our Electrical Masterclass is a comprehensive, step-by-step guide to this stage of converting a van, including:

Supplies lists
Wiring diagrams and component sizing calculators
Video courses for all steps

Get your camper van conversion electrics right first try with the Electrical Masterclass.

Supplies List

We'll start with a top-level supplies list for this section. This isn't exhaustive, and doesn't include all the cables, fuses, and electrical connectors you might need. Make sure there's a good electrics shop nearby, as you'll be doing lots of trips.

Did you know you can get a free electrical wiring diagram by signing up for The Van Conversion Newsletter? A wiring diagram is the basis for any electrical system, and we'll be discussing them a lot in the following section. Sign up for our newsletter and get ahead of the game with a free wiring diagram.

Leisure battery

Inverter

Split charger/DC-DC charger

Battery charger

Solar panels

Solar charge controller

Portable power station

Switch panel

12V fuse box

Isolator switch

Busbars

A selection of fuses

A selection of fuse holders

Inline breakers

Terminal clamp connectors

Battery monitor

Heavy-duty lugs

Heat shrinks

T-tap wire connectors

Crimp connectors

Wire stripping multitool

Crimping tool

Heat gun

The core of your electrical system

Converts 12V DC to mains electricity

Charges your batteries as you drive

Connects your van to mains power

Charge your leisure batteries from the sun

Manages solar input to your batteries

Portable power, flexible backup battery

Controls electrical system components

Fuses all circuits connecting to switch panel

Universal kill-switch for the system

Common wiring points for components

Failsafes for electrical systems

Hold fuses

Resettable fuse that doubles as a switch

Connect cable to leisure batteries

Allows monitoring of battery charge state

Connects cable to terminals

Protects wires & connectors after crimping

Splices one wire into the middle of another

Connects wires to 12V appliances

Cuts, strips, and crimps thinner wires

A more precise tool for crimping wires

Compresses heat shrinks on connections

Key Principles and Planning Your Electrical Van Setup

Electricity in a campervan boils down to understanding how electrons move and how that movement powers your devices. It's important that you understand a few basic electrical principles as you begin working on your van conversion electrical system.

AC vs. DC

Direct Current (DC) flows one way (imagine a river) and is produced by your van's leisure batteries. Positive is typically red, negative is black, and most of your camper essentials—lights, fans, fridges, and heaters—will run off 12V DC power.
Alternating Current (AC) vibrates back and forth (think of ocean waves). Household mains electricity is AC—110V in North America, 230V in the UK/Europe. If you want standard wall sockets in your van for laptops or TVs, you’ll need an inverter (to go from DC to AC) or a shore power hook-up (to use campsite or home electricity directly).

Volts, Amps, and Watts

These three measures are the bread and butter of electrical power.

Volts (V): Voltage is like the pressure pushing electrons along, similar to the speed of water in a pipe. In van conversions, 12V is typical (matching your battery), though some vans use 24V or even add 230V AC circuits.
Amps (A): Amperage tells you how much current is flowing—akin to how many liters of water pass through a pipe per second.
Watts (W): Wattage measures the total power (V x A). It combines the “pressure” of the flow (volts) with the “amount” of flow (amps). So a higher wattage means more oomph to power heavy-duty appliances.

You can remember the relationship between volts, amps, and watts using this conversion triangle:

Units next to each other are multiplied, and units above and below each other are divided. Thus we see that:

watts = volts x amps

volts = watts ÷ amps

amps = watts ÷ volts

Therefore, if we have an appliance that doesn't state one of these values, we can easily figure it out from the other two.

Our full article on camper van conversion electrics contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Electrical system principles
Overall structure of a campervan electrical system
Parallel vs. series wiring
Sizing an electrical system

Putting Together a Wiring Diagram and Sizing Components

Our camper van conversion electrical system is made up of a few key components:

Leisure batteries store electricity and use it to power devices and appliances. The more electricity you use, the bigger your batteries need to be.
Solar panels absorb sunlight and convert it to electricity, which is sent to your batteries. This is the main source of electricity for a converted campervan.
A solar charge controller sits between your solar panels and your leisure batteries. It manages the electrical output of your solar panels and charges your batteries safely and efficiently.
A split charger is another source of electricity in your camper van conversion. It takes a small amount of power from your van's engine when it's running and uses it to charge your leisure batteries.
A battery charger or shore power connection is the final source of electricity in most vans. It connects to mains outlets in your house or a campsite and uses that mains electricity to charge your leisure batteries.
An inverter is essential if you want to power mains (120V/220V AC) appliances like laptops or TVs in your van. Your leisure batteries output 12V DC electricity, and an inverter converts that 12V DC to 120V/220V AC for use by mains appliances.

Each component in our electrical system is sized according to our usage and the other components in the system. This sizing begins with our leisure batteries: we need to know how big our batteries will be in order to decide how much solar power we'll need to charge them, how big a shore power connection we'll need, and how powerful our split charger will need to be. From there, we'll be able to understand the sizes of our cables, fuses, busbars, and switches.

The charts below give you an idea of the most common sizes of battery, solar array, and inverter, based on our 2023 Roaming Home study.

Transforming a van into a campervan requires making several crucial decisions, with none more important than designing and installing the electrical system. Whether you're relying on solar panels, a leisure battery, or shore power at campsites, ensuring your setup is both safe and compliant with international standards is essential. We have written a detailed guide covering the key electrical regulations, including BS 7671 (UK), NEC (USA), and EN 1648-2 (Europe), providing everything you need to know to build a secure, reliable, and legally compliant campervan electrical system. Read our guide to electrical regulation.

Sizing calculations can get confusing quickly. Fortunately, we've also put together a suite of handy calculators that will help you size every component in your electrical system. Use these calculators to decide on your electrical components before putting them together in a wiring diagram.

Battery Sizing Calculator

Solar Panel Calculator

Inverter Calculator

MPPT Sizing Calculator

DC-to-DC Charger Calculator

Wire Sizing Calculator

Energy Consumption Calculator

Charge Time Calculator

As we spec out our electrical system, it can be useful to organise it into a wiring diagram. A wiring diagram is a schematic which lays out the elecrical connections between all our components. It might also be worth checking out electrical system kits. Increasingly common these days, electrical van conversion kits are bundles containing everything you'll need to wire up an electrical subsystem of a particular spec. For example, you might buy a solar power kit which includes solar panels, and appropriately-sized MPPT solar charge controller, solar panel mountas, cables, fuses, and fuse holders.

Get the high defination version of the wiring diagram above (plus loads more wiring & plumbing diagrams) when you sign up for the Van Conversion Newsletter.

Our full article on van conversion electrical system wiring diagrams contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Explanations of every component of the system
Free, downloadable wiring diagrams
Breakdowns of high-spec, mid-spec, and budget electrical systems

Wiring and Fusing an Electrical System

Wiring and fusing are essential for the proper, safe functioning of your electrical system. It's important that you understand how these elements work and how to set things up before getting started with putting your system together.

Wire Basics

Wires are metal conductors sheathed by plastic or rubber insulation. Copper is the standard choice—highly conductive, flexible, and resistant to corrosion. Aluminium might be cheaper and lighter, but its tendency to corrode makes it unsuitable for damp conditions. Tinned copper wire is useful in marine or coastal settings as it resists corrosion even better, ideal for solar cables up on the roof.

Voltage Drop

Voltage drop occurs when current travels through long or thin wires, leading to a reduction in voltage by the time it reaches your appliances. Sensitive kit like an inverter needs no more than a 3% voltage drop, whilst LED lights can tolerate up to 10%. If your voltage drop is too high, size up your wire.

Wire Sizing and Avoiding Voltage Drop

By sizing our wires correctly, we avoid voltage drop, prevent against electrical fires and malfunctions, and ensure the proper functioning of our electrical components. A 12V DC wire size chart is a handy tool for matching wire thickness with the current (amps) and the length of the cable run. In the UK and Europe, wire thickness is listed in mm², while North America uses AWG—be sure to cross-reference if buying online.

Our handy wire sizing calculator takes the guesswork out of sizing your wires, ensuring you'll have all the right numbers when laying out your wiring diagram.

Cutting and Stripping Wires

When putting together your electrical system, you'll be doing a lot of cutting wire down to size and stripping the ends to connect them to components.

Cutting: Smaller wires (1.5–6mm²) can be cut with a multi-tool, while medium (10–35mm²) and large (50mm²+) require heftier cutters.
Stripping: Use a proper wire stripper for small wires or a Stanley blade for large ones. Never nick the copper strands—damaging them weakens the wire both electrically and mechanically.

Image: Cablecraft

Connecting Wires

Once cut to size and stripped, wires need to be connected, either to each other or to electrical components. There are a few ways of doing this:

Twisting: Quick and dirty method, not advisable for long-term camper installs.
Screw/Lever Connectors: Lever (WAGO) connectors are brilliant—they’re reusable, secure, and simple. Screw terminals (strip connectors or choc boxes) can work too, but you should use ferrules on wire ends for a better grip.
Soldering: Heated method that melts solder to join wires. It can be reliable if done well, but can create brittle joints if flexed repeatedly—less ideal in a moving van.
Crimping (Cold Welding): The most popular and arguably the best method. You fit a stripped wire end into a crimp connector, then compress it with a crimping tool to form a permanent, strong joint.

Crimping is the preferred method of connecting wires and it's the method we use most often when wiring up our van conversion electrics.

Heat Shrinking

Once you’ve formed a connection, slide a heat shrink tube over the joint and shrink it with a heat gun. This provides tight insulation and protects against moisture and abrasion. Thin wall is basic insulation, dual wall offers weatherproofing, and heavy wall adds even more resilience.

Finally, connected wires should be tidied and organised with cable ties, supported with plastic hangers, and protected with anti-chafe tape wherever they pass through metal. By following these steps, you’ll have a robust, organised electrical setup that keeps your camper safe and powered on the road.

Our full article on van conversion wiring contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Explanations of every kind of crimp connection
Step-by-step guides on crimping and heat shrinking
Wire cutting techniques
Electrical regulations
Recommended tools for electrical work

Fuses and Circuit Breakers

Fusing your campervan’s electrical system is crucial for safety and reliability. Fuses and circuit breakers protect against short circuits, blowouts, and fires by interrupting power flow when current exceeds safe limits. Here’s what you need to know.

Both fuses and circuit breakers serve the same purpose: overcurrent protection. Fuses use a metal filament that melts (blows) when current’s too high; you then replace the fuse. Circuit breakers are resettable switches that trip under fault conditions. Fuses are cheaper and simpler to swap, whereas circuit breakers cost more but double as a handy on/off switch.

AC vs. DC Fuses

Always use AC fuses for AC systems and DC fuses for DC systems. AC fuses typically handle higher voltages and resist electrical arcing better. In a campervan, your 12V system is DC, but you may also have a 230V7110V AC hookup or inverter. Keep each side separate with the appropriate protective devices.

Images: Campervan HQ

Fuse and Breaker Ratings

Rated Voltage: The maximum voltage a fuse or breaker can safely handle.
Rated Amperage: The current printed on the device (e.g. 10A); the fuse or breaker usually tolerates a bit above this before blowing or tripping.
Tripping or Melting Time: Some fuses (fast blow) react quickly, protecting delicate gear; others (slow blow) withstand brief surges.

Choosing the Right Fuse for DC Circuits

Size Your Wiring: Ensure your wire gauge can handle the current load.
Fuse to Protect the Cable: Calculate the circuit’s maximum current (including a 25% safety buffer) and pick a fuse that matches or slightly exceeds that current.
Select Fuse Type:
- Blade Fuses (1A–80A): Common in vehicles for 12V appliances.
- Terminal/MRBF Fuses (30A–300A): Ideal for battery connections.
- ANL, MIDI, MEGA, Class T (up to 400A): Used for high-current kit like inverters.

Image: user Havarhen, Wikipedia Commons under Creative Commons

Circuit Breakers

Circuit breakers are chosen similarly: wire size, load amperage, 25% buffer, and a reputable brand. They’re great for switching off parts of the system for maintenance or troubleshooting. Beware of counterfeits, especially online.

Fuse Boxes and Consumer Units

A 12V fuse box (often using blade fuses) is standard for distributing DC power to lights, pumps, and fans. It’s typically fed from either your battery’s busbars or a solar charge controller. For AC hookups (shore power or an inverter), you’ll need a consumer unit—a small distribution panel with an RCD and MCBs to protect each mains circuit.

By selecting the correct fuse or breaker, using the right holder or box, and following sound design principles, you’ll ensure that your campervan remains safe, compliant, and ready for your next big adventure.

Our full article on fusing a converted campervan contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Fuse and breaker types
How to choose and size fuses and breakers
Electrical regulations
How to wire fuses and breakers
Recommended products

Electrical Grounding or Earthing in a Van to Campervan Conversion

Grounding or earthing your campervan is crucial for a safe and reliable electrical setup. Because “ground” can mean different things to different people, there’s often plenty of confusion over how to do it correctly.

In essence, earthing in a campervan is about connecting the negative terminal of your leisure battery to the van chassis (chassis ground), alongside a separate grounding arrangement for any AC system.

Key Points for Proper Grounding

Earth Ground vs. Chassis Ground: Earth ground is a physical link to our planet, used in household mains systems via a grounding rod. In your van, the metal chassis serves as the primary return path for DC, rather than the actual earth.
AC vs. DC Ground: AC ground should be isolated from DC ground. The chassis connection for your inverter or shore power unit (AC ground) is separate from your leisure battery negative (DC ground).
Negative Busbar: To keep things tidy, gather all DC grounds on a negative busbar and connect that busbar to your designated chassis ground point. Avoid mixing this with the AC ground.
Ground Fault Protection: Install RCDs (UK) or GFCIs (US) in your AC system. These devices trip if they detect any current leaking to ground, shielding you from dangerous faults. For DC, rely on fuses and circuit breakers to safeguard against overcurrents.
Check Manufacturer Guidelines: Some components, like inverters or MPPT chargers, have specific grounding requirements. Follow their instructions carefully to stay compliant and safe.

If you’re ever unsure, consult a professional electrician. Proper earthing isn’t a luxury—it’s an absolute must for avoiding electrical hazards in your campervan.

Our full article on grounding and earthing in a campervan conversion contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Full explanation of how grounding works with electrical diagrams
Electrical regulations on grounding
Details on how to ground DC and AC systems with wiring diagrams
Guidance on which components of your system need their own ground connection

Leisure Batteries

A leisure battery is a specially designed deep-cycle battery for campervans. Its job is to store the energy you need to power lights, fans, fridges, and other devices when you’re off-grid. Below, we explore the types of leisure battery for van conversion use, how to size them, and how they’re best charged.

Lead-acid vs. Lithium

Lead-acid batteries (flooded or sealed) are cheaper and easier to find, but they’re heavier and can only be safely discharged to around 50%. Flooded (FLA) batteries need ventilation and regular maintenance, while sealed VRLA batteries (AGM or gel) are spill-proof and maintenance-free:

AGM: The most popular sealed option—sturdy, cheap, but shorter-lived than gel.
Gel: Similar to AGM but with a longer lifespan (around 1,000 cycles at 50% depth of discharge).

Lithium (LiFePO4) batteries cost more but are lighter, smaller, and can be discharged down to about 20–30% remaining capacity—offering far more usable energy per charge. They also last several times longer than lead-acid batteries, making them a sound long-term investment. However, lithium batteries need protecting from extreme cold, so consider insulating them or keeping them in a warmer space in your van. Additionally, lithium batteries don't work with all kinds of split charge relay, and must be charged with a battery-to-battery charger/DC-DC charger wired to a smart alternator. Vans made before 2016 may not have a smart alternator, so check before buying your batteries.

Image: Battle Born Batteries

Depth of Discharge and Lifespan

Lithium, AGM, and gel batteries are most clearly differentiated by their depth of discharge and overall lifespan. These are the properties which will affect your choice of battery chemistry (alonside price).

Depth of Discharge (DoD) is how far you can drain a battery without damaging it. Exceeding the recommended DoD rapidly reduces battery life. Lithium batteries can be drained to a lower DoD than other battery types.
Cycle Life measures how many charge/discharge cycles you can expect before capacity declines significantly. For example, a well-cared-for AGM might last 500 cycles at 50% DoD, while a lithium battery can easily exceed 2,000 cycles.

Charging Profiles

Having chosen a battery chemistry, it's important that your battery is charged optimally to maximise performance and health. Lead-acid batteries typically follow a three-stage charge cycle (bulk, absorption, float), while lithium batteries have two stages (constant current, then constant voltage). Quality solar charge controllers or battery split chargers regulate voltage and current to suit each battery’s ideal charge profile, preventing damage such as overheating or overvoltage.

Batteries are complex pieces of equipment, and there are a lot of factors to consider when choosing one. The table below provides a complete overview of the most common battery types used in a van to campervan conversion.

battery chemistries comparison table.png

Sizing Your Battery

Having chosen a battery type and maybe even a manufacturer, we need to know how big a battery we'll need. This is based on our daily use and off-grid aspirations.

Calculate Your Daily Load: Work out how many watt-hours (Wh) of electricity you use in a day. Convert that figure to amp-hours (Ah) by dividing Wh by 12 (for a 12V system).
Choose Your Off-Grid Days: If you want two days of autonomy, multiply the daily Ah by two.
Account for DoD: Lead-acid batteries shouldn’t be drained below 50%, so you’ll need to double your final figure if you’re using AGM or gel. Lithium’s deeper discharge means you can get away with fewer total amp-hours, but at a higher upfront cost.

Our handy load calculator and battery sizing calculator are convenient tools for doing all of these calculations in one go. They even recommend you batteries based on your requirements.

Ultimately, if your budget allows, lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO) batteries offer unmatched performance and lifespan. Otherwise, a high-quality gel battery will last you the longest and perform the best out of all the lead-acid battery types.

Our full article on leisure batteries contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Battery types
Battery safety
Maximising your battery's lifespan
Battery charging times
Series vs. parallel wiring
Recommendations for the best batteries for van conversion
Full installation and wiring guide

Portable Power Stations

It's useful to talk about portable power stations here. Portable power stations are large battery packs designed for portability, solar charging, and general ease of use. Whereas a leisure battery stays in your van, a portable power station can be taken wherever you go. They're also optimised for solar charging, making them an excellent companion for travelling off-grid. They can be used to add capacity to your campervan's electrical system, or to save your bacon in case of a malfunction.

Because they incorporate a leisure battery, a solar charge controller, and an inverter, a portable power station can also replace a dedicated electrical system under certain conditions:

Low-to-medium electricity usage, devices rather than appliances
Medium-to-high electricity usage if you absolutely want to avoid wiring a dedicated electrical system
If off-grid independence is less important to you (for e.g. you do short trips or regularly stay at campsites)

Image: EcoFlow

A quality portable power station charges quickly from AC, DC, and solar, can be expanded with extra battery packs, and is light and portable for its capacity. They give you flexible and portable extra power that's great for backing up your leisure batteries.

Our full article on portable power stations contains much more information on these useful vanlife gadgets, including:

How they work
Use as a substitute for a full electrical system
Use as backup and support
Maintenance
How to choose and product recommendations

Campervan Solar Power System

With our batteries in place, it's time to charge them. Solar power is by far the most common method for powering a campervan, with 78% of vanlifers installing solar panels on a van.

Solar System Basics

A typical campervan solar system comprises:

Solar Panels: Convert sunlight into electricity.
Solar Charge Controller: Regulates voltage and current to prevent battery damage.
Leisure Batteries: Store the energy for your appliances.

Most van converters opt for a 300–400W setup, though higher capacities may be needed if you have hefty power demands or regularly face poor weather. Calculating your daily energy usage and factoring in system losses will help you decide on the appropriate panel wattage. Use our solar panel calculator to streamline your calculations.

Image: explorist.life

Solar Panel Types

Monocrystalline: Highest efficiency and long warranties, but pricier.
Polycrystalline: Cheaper and still durable, although not as efficient.
Flexible (Thin Film): Lightweight and discreet, with lower efficiency and shorter warranties.

Fixed vs. Portable Panels

Fixed Roof Panels: Effortless to use, always collecting energy whenever there’s sunlight. The drawbacks are that you can’t angle them easily, and shading can be an issue.
Portable Panels: Can be placed in direct sunlight even if you park in the shade, and tilted for optimal angle. However, they require manual setup and can be more vulnerable to theft. Portable panels are often paired with a portable power station.

Series vs. Parallel Wiring

Series: Voltage adds up whilst current stays the same. Suits smaller cables and simpler wiring. However, shading any one panel reduces output for the entire array.
Parallel: Voltage remains the same, current sums. More resilient to partial shading—if one panel is shaded, the others still function at full power. Needs thicker wires and more connectors.

Take a look at the wiring diagrams below to see how these wiring setups look.

Wiring solar panels in series for a van conversion.jpg

Solar Charge Controllers

The charge controller is the other vital component of your solar system. A solar charge controller is a device which keeps our leisure batteries from overcharging by regulating the voltage and current coming from the campervan solar panels. It converts the powerful electricity from our solar panels into electricity our leisure batteries can use.

A good solar charge controller ensures that the voltage and amperage matches the charge stage of the battery. It is paramount that it does its job correctly to avoid dangerous battery overcharging, leaks, and fires. A good charge controller also accounts for shading and temperature inconsistencies, balancing solar input across your solar array.

When selecting a charge controller, you'll choose between:

PWM (Pulse Width Modulation): Cheaper, but around 30% less efficient.
MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking): More precise, accelerating daily charging by up to 30%. Recommended for most van builds, especially larger systems.

Your charge controller needs to match the output of your solar panels, which depends on their total wattage, the volatage and current they output, and whether you've wired them in series or parallel. Use our MPPT sizing calculator to streamline these calculations and easily decide on a charge controller.

Images: Renogy, Victron

Fusing and Safety

Always install a double-pole DC circuit breaker (MCB) rated at least 250V between your panels and charge controller—particularly if you wire panels in series where voltages can climb well above 48V. This ensures both positive and negative lines can be disconnected for maintenance or emergencies.

Panel Maintenance and Lifespan

Quality panels often carry 20–30-year warranties. Performance may drop by about 0.5–1% each year, but you’ll likely still have 75–85% capacity after 25 years. Regular cleaning, secure connections, and adequate ventilation help keep them working well.

A well-sized solar system is what you need to unlock off-grid freedom for your van conversion. By choosing the right panels, wiring them carefully, and protecting them with proper fusing and maintenance, you’ll enjoy reliable solar power wherever your vanlife adventures take you.

Our full article on van conversion solar systems contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Sizing your solar system
Series vs. parallel wiring
Buying guides for solar panels, charge controllers, and solar system kits
Installation guides and wiring diagrams
Maintenance and care

Other Electrical System Components

Most vanlifers complement their solar electrical system with an inverter for using mains appliances, a split charging system for charging batteries whilst driving, and standard amenities like 12V lighting and a switch panel.

Inverters

An inverter is essential if you want to power mains appliances in your campervan—things like laptops, blenders, and other 240V devices—because it converts 12V DC from your leisure batteries into 120V/240V AC. The two main types of inverters are pure sine wave and modified sine wave.

Modified sine wave: cheaper, but the square-shaped output can damage delicate gear and cause buzzing or malfunction.
Pure sine wave: produce a smooth AC waveform that mimics household power, making them safer for sensitive electronics (e.g. laptops, TVs, CPAP machines).

Another key factor is harmonic distortion: high-quality inverters aim for under 3% Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) to prevent “noisy” electricity that degrades equipment. Efficiency also matters—premium pure sine wave inverters typically convert 90–98% of DC power into usable AC, while less efficient models can waste 15–25%.

Choosing the right size inverter involves adding up the power ratings of all the mains appliances you might run off an inverter at one time, and factoring in the safety factor and efficiency of your chosen brand of inverter. Our inverter size calculator makes these calculations easy, and even recommends you specific inverter models based on your needs.

Images: Renogy, Victron, Bestek

Finally, if you intend to have shore hook-up for charging your batteries and power devices directly from the mains, an inverter-charger combines both an inverter and a built-in charger in one tidy package. This reduces costs, wiring complexity, and overall hassle, giving you a more streamlined campervan electrical system.

Our full article on van conversion inverters contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Peak power ratings
Load efficiency and power factor
Inverter sizing guide
Installation guide and wiring diagrams
Inverter-chargers
Top picks for all inverter types

Battery Chargers (Shore Hook-up)

Shore power, or campervan electric hook-up, connects your van to the mains, letting you charge leisure batteries and run appliances directly off external power. We’ve spent winters at -20°C in campervans, relying on mains to keep everything running smoothly when sunlight is sparse and heating is essential. A battery charger converts 110/230V AC into 12V DC, matching your battery’s charging profile—Shane's Victron Blue Smart 25A has been flawless. It incorporates surge protection, which safeguards pricey devices from unstable campsite power and lightning strikes, making it a worthwhile add-on for any long-term van dweller.

Our full article on installing shore power in your camper van conversion contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Sizing and choosing a battery charger
Installation instructions and wiring diagrams
Implementing surge protection
How to wire a consumer unit
Testing and inspection
Product recommendations

Split Charging

A split charging system is a must-have for any off-grid campervan build, working alongside solar to ensure your leisure batteries stay powered while you drive. Ordinarily, the alternator charges only the starter battery, but a split charger re-routes surplus power once the starter battery’s full. There are five main methods:

Manual Switch
Cheap and simple, but you must remember to switch it off whenever you stop, or you’ll drain the starter battery. It can’t fully charge the leisure batteries, lacks safety features, and won’t work with smart alternators or lithium batteries.
Split Charge Relay (SCR)
Automatically switches when the engine starts or stops, removing the main downside of manual switches. However, it’s still inefficient, can’t reach 100% charge, and isn’t compatible with lithium batteries or modern smart alternators.
Split Charge Diode (Battery Isolator)
A diode only allows current to flow in one direction, protecting the starter battery. Unfortunately, it causes significant voltage drop, limiting battery charge to around 80% and generating excess heat.
Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR)
The most common choice, it detects the starter battery’s voltage rather than using a D+ trigger. However, like SCRs, it’s less efficient, cannot achieve a full charge, and won’t work with smart alternators or lithium.
Smart Charger (Battery-to-Battery / DC-DC Charger)
Actively boosts or reduces alternator power to match your battery’s ideal charging profile. It can reach 100% charge, includes robust safety features, and is fully compatible with smart alternators and lithium batteries.

Image: HC Cargo

When sizing a DC-DC charger, check your alternator’s rating and battery type. As a rule of thumb, don’t exceed 40% of your alternator’s output. For instance, a 150A alternator can typically manage up to a 60A DC-DC charger, particularly important if running large lithium banks or high-draw systems.

Our B2B charger calculator streamlines these calculations, helping you easily choose a DC-DC charger that's the right size for your setup.

Our full article on split charging systems contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Wiring diagrams and setup instructions for every kind of split charger
Wiring and fusing
Sizing your split charger
Recommended DC-DC chargers

Campervan LED Lighting

LED lights offer a perfect balance of efficiency, versatility, and longevity for campervan lighting. They use significantly less power than traditional bulbs—around 75% less—making them ideal for 12V DC systems and preserving precious battery life. Three main types are used in vans:

Strip lights for ambient glow
Puck lights for general overhead illumination
Side lamps for added flair and task lighting

Image: Sandy Vans

Thanks to their low wattage and high lumens output, LEDs help keep batteries topped up for other essentials. Their remarkable lifespan—often 25,000 to 50,000 hours—means you’ll rarely need replacements. By layering your lighting by differentiating ambient, task, and accent lighting, you can create a cosy yet functional living space, switching between warm white strip lights for relaxing, brighter task lighting for cooking, and decorative colour strips for ambience.

Our full article on campervan LED lighting contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Wiring instructions and diagrams for every kind of 12V lighting
Fusing your lights
Lighting system inspiration
How to set up layered and smart lighting solutions

Final Touches

The final aspects of any van conversion electrical system are likely to be switches and switch panels wired to a common 12V fuse box that controls all your 12V appliances:

Our article on switches includes breakdowns of different kinds of switches and how to wire them.
Our article on 12V fuse boxes includes instructions on how to wire a common fuse box to every 12V appliance in your van.

A campervan fridge is an essential electrical appliance for most people; check out our full guide on campervan fridges here., where we go into detail into your options for fridge types and models, their electricity consumption, and how to install and maintain one.

You might like to finalise your electrical system with the installation of luxuries like air conditioning or a washing machine.

Stay Warm in Winter and Cool in Summer

How to soundproof and insulate a van
Understanding and implementing sound deadening
Insulating your campervan's floor
Insulating the walls and door panels
Insulating the roof

Insulation

With your van's electrics wired up, we can move on to how to insulate a van. You'll be installing insulation on top of your electrical wires, so make sure your wiring is finalised before moving on to this stage.

Insulation is essential to get right, as it drastically increases your comfort in both hot and cool weather and reduces your energy needs for heating in winter and cooling in summer. We'll discuss the layers that make up your insulation system, including soundproofing a van and whether you need a vapor barrier for van use. We'll go over different van insulation materials and give detailed instructions for how to apply them in your camper.

Our Insulation Masterclass is a comprehensive, step-by-step guide to this stage of converting a van, including:

Supplies lists
Insulation comparison charts and datasheets
Video courses for all steps

Get your camper van conversion insulation right first try with the Insulation Masterclass.

Supplies List

Polyiso foam board insulation

Insulation stick pins

3M Thinsulate

Hempitecture Hempwool

Draught excluder strips

Reflective foil insulation

Wheel arch water tanks

Sound deadening material

Effective insulation for large flat areas

For cleanly mounting insulation board

Soft insulation for tight and awkward areas

Eco-friendly alternative to 3M Thinsulate

For tightly sealing doors

Radiative insulation behind Thinsulate

Insulating, space-saving water storage

Insulates your van from exterior noise

Sound Proofing a Camper Van

A noisy campervan can quickly spoil life on the road, especially when driving on uneven surfaces or sleeping in the rain. Van sound deadening focuses on reducing those rattles, vibrations, and outside noise by adding a thin layer of specialised material to your van’s steel body panels.

Images: DoDo Mat

Why Does Soundproofing My Van Matter?

Road & Tyre Noise: The metal walls and wheel arches amplify road and tyre sound.
Weather & Ambient Noise: Rain on a thin metal roof sounds like a drum, and outside chatter penetrates uninsulated panels.
Vibrations: Ageing hinges, latches, and large metal surfaces reverberate, creating rattles and hums.

Key Areas When Soundproofing a Mobile Home

Ceiling: Shield against rain and wind noise by covering 80-100% of the roof.
Walls & Doors: Aim for 25–50% coverage to reduce rattles and dampen noise from traffic, pedestrians, and other campers.
Wheel Arches: Fully cover these hotspots to lessen tyre noise.
Floor: If you’re bothered by road noise whilst driving (especially if you've removed your bulkhead), add more thorough coverage.

Best Soundproofing Materials

Butyl Mats: Lightweight, adhesive foil-backed sheets that absorb vibrations. They minimise structural noise well but offer limited ambient noise insulation, so pair them with proper thermal insulation.
Sealants: Properly sealed windows, vents, and edges reduce gaps that let in noise.

In practice, sound deadening goes on first, followed by thermal insulation and then your finishing layers. This creates a quiet, cosy campervan—one where you can relax, sleep better in the rain, and actually enjoy the journey.

Our full article on sound deadening a van for vanlife contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Choosing from sound deadening materials
Product recommendations
Step-by-step instructions for applying sound deadening to your roof, walls, wheel arches, and floor

How to Insulate a Camper Van

Insulation in a campervan helps control heat transfer, keeping you warm in winter and cool in summer. It slows conduction (heat moving through solids), convection (warm air rising and cooler air sinking), and radiative heating (infrared waves from the sun), creating a more comfortable living space. Without it, your van’s metal body quickly transfers outside temperatures in, and inside heat out—leading to cold nights, sweltering days, and more condensation.

Images: Reddit user u/PlasticBarista

Conduction

Metal is a poor insulator, so we need to add materials with a lower thermal conductivity (k-value) and a higher insulation factor (R-value). Filling as much of the van’s surface as possible with sheets of insulation material helps avoid thermal bridges—uninsulated areas where heat easily flows through.

Convection

Warm air rising and cool air sinking inside cavities behind panels and supports causes air loops that reduce insulation effectiveness. Fill hollow spaces properly with roll or batt materials, but avoid compressing them. Draughts at doors and windows also encourage convection, so seal these gaps where possible.

Radiation

Radiative heat from sunlight can be reflected away by foil surfaces (e.g. Reflectix), ideally positioned with an air gap. Many foam boards come foil-faced, combining conduction and radiation control in one.

Moisture Control: Do I Need a Vapor Barrier in My Van?

Human bodies naturally produce water vapour through our skin and in our breath, whilst cooking and LPG heating produce a lot of vapour as a by-product. If this vapour collects and condenses in your van, it leads to mould and reduced insulation performance. A heater, good ventilation (like a roof vent or floor vent), and possibly a dehumidifier help keep moisture levels low.

Vapour barriers are a controversial topic among van converters. A van build vapor barrier is a waterproof material that's installed on top of insulation and prevents moisture from getting to it. The problem with this is that unless the seal is perfect, water can still get in and become trapped in your insulation, causing mould. Only install a vapour barrier if you are absolutely sure you can get a 100% seal. Otherwise, it's better to just let the insulation breathe.

Image: Ducato Dreams

Types of Insulation

Foam Board (PIR/Polyiso, XPS, EPS)
- Polyiso (PIR) is generally the best: high R-rating, relatively eco-friendly compared to XPS. Fire-resistant and often foil-faced, it’s excellent for walls, floors, and ceilings. However, its performance dips below around 15°C—though in practice, it still works if the van’s kept warm.
Roll or Batt Insulation (e.g. 3M Thinsulate, sheep’s wool, HempWool)
- Great for filling awkward gaps, preventing air loops. 3M Thinsulate is malleable, water-resistant, and safe to handle. HempWool is a sustainable choice with no toxins and excellent thermal properties.
Spray Foam and Loose Fill
- Less common and can be tricky to apply correctly. Mistakes risk trapping moisture or bulging body panels.

The table below summarises the properties of the most commonly used camper van conversion insulation materials. In practice, you can see that the materials we don't recommend using are the ones which pose health risks. Beyond that, it's a choice between thermal properties, cost, and ease of installation.

Aim to mix different types of insulation to suit the location: foam board for flat sections and roll insulation or loose fill for tight spaces. By carefully managing conduction, convection, radiation, and moisture, you’ll create a snug, energy-efficient campervan ready for every season.

How to Install Floor Insulation in a Converted Campervan

Reflectix (Optional): If your van’s floor has troughs and ridges, lay Reflectix first. Seal it with foil tape to maximise the trapped air pockets under your foam board.
Wooden Furring: Install timber beams around the perimeter and across the floor. Make sure they match the thickness of your foam board (e.g., 5cm timber for 5cm insulation). These beams serve as sturdy anchor points for screwing down the floorboards and furniture.
Foam Board: Cut polyiso (Celotex) to fit snugly between the furring. Fill any remaining gaps with roll insulation or expanding foam.
Subfloor: Screw sheets of plywood into the furring to create a solid base before adding your final floor covering.

How to Insulate the Walls in a Converted Campervan

Support Frame: Screw upright 2x1 timber at lower, middle, and upper levels of the walls. Self-drilling or self-tapping screws both work, but make sure you drill pilot holes first for better grip.
Foam Board: Cut polyiso to size and attach it to as much of the wall as possible using adhesive, stick pins, or double-sided tape.
Fill Gaps: Tuck Thinsulate or HempWool into awkward spaces; use spray foam for tighter gaps.
Vapour Barrier (Optional): If your insulation is batt or loose-fill, consider a Reflectix vapour barrier. Seal carefully to prevent moisture build-up.

How to Insulate the Doors and Wheel Arches in a Converted Campervan

Remove any stock lining, seal air gaps, then stuff the space with polyiso and wool insulation.
Around wheel arches, build a wooden box and fill it with insulation—or get creative by using wheel arch water containers.

How to Insulate the Roof in a Converted Campervan

Wooden Beams: Bolt timber furrings to the structural supports.
Reflectix (Optional): Stick strips to the roof’s troughs to utilise the resulting air gap.
Foam Board: Attach polyiso with adhesive, stick pins, or tape. Fill any cracks with Thinsulate or expanding foam and seal seams with foil tape.

Our full article on insulating a van for vanlife contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Full explanations of technical terms and concepts
Breakdowns of insulation materials by their properties
Van insulation cost estimates
Recommended products
Step-by-step instructions for insulating your roof, walls, wheel arches, and floor

Insulation is a multi-faceted process that works hand-in-hand with heating (LPG, diesel, or a woodburner), awnings, and ventilation to produce a comfortable interior space that's temperature and moisture-controlled in all seasons. Winterisation is an important extension of this process, and involves protecting your water, gas, and electrical systems from freezing temperatures.

Our full article on preparing a van for vanlife in winter contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Preparing your converted campervan for winter storage
Preparing your converted campervan for winter vanlife
Step-by-step guides for winterising every van system
Product recommendations
Essential tips for getting through the harshest part of the year

With the interior framed up and coated in insulation, you're reading to give your van conversion its first layer of homely decor by putting down a floor and cladding the walls and ceiling.

The First Step to Making Your Van Feel Like Home

Durable van flooring underlayers
Camper van flooring installation
Van flooring wood choices
Paneling your van's walls and ceiling
Cladding your van's doors
Finishing, colouring, and painting your van's floorboards and paneling

Flooring, Framing, and Cladding

With your insulation in place and secured to framing, it's time to give your van its final interior coating. You should use a durable, waterproof van flooring material, which is mounted to the plywood van flooring sub-layer you installed over the insulation. Wall and ceiling cladding is typically either simple plywood board or tongue-and-groove paneling, which gives a more aesthetic feel.

In this section, we'll discuss van flooring ideas and materials and how to go about your van flooring installation. We'll also go into how to panel your walls, doors, and ceiling, and what materials to do it with.

Our Carpentry Masterclass is a comprehensive, step-by-step guide to this stage of converting a van, including:

Supplies lists
Furniture diagrams and dimension charts
Video courses for all steps

Get your camper van conversion carpentry right first try with the Carpentry Masterclass.

Supplies List

This being the first woodworking section, it's time to stock your workshop with a selection of woodworking tools. You'll get a lot of use out of these later when you're building your furniture, so take the opportunity to master them here.

A power drill of at least 500W

A jigsaw

A selection of clamps

A circular saw

An orbital sander

A mitre box

Wood glue

A woodworking table

A selection of sandpaper

Measuring tape

A chalk line

A carpenter's square

A scribe tool

For drilling holes and driving screws

For cutting straight and curved lines

For holding things in place during drying

For straight-line cutting

For quickly refining cuts and surfaces

For making accurate angled cuts

For binding wood to flat surfaces

For comfortable working

For tidying edges and drilled holes

For measuring cuts

For marking long straight cuts

For marking accurate 90 degree cuts

For marking cuts flush to irregular surfaces

What's the Best Van Flooring and How do I Lay It?

Installing DIY van flooring usually starts with your insulation layer and wooden furring strips, which create a raised, level base for your floor. You then lay a robust plywood subfloor (10mm or thicker) on top of those strips. Cutting the ply to your van’s contours often calls for a chalk line and a circular saw, and once it’s screwed down, you have a flat, sturdy base ready for your final floor covering.

When it comes to the visible floor itself, laminate or vinyl van flooring is hard to beat. Sold in most DIY shops for house floors, it’s typically tongue-and-groove, which means it slots together easily, and is scratch-proof, waterproof, and robust enough to handle life on the road. To fit it, apply some wood glue on the plywood subfloor, lay the laminate boards, and weigh them down overnight to help them bond.

Van Wall, Door, and Ceiling Paneling

For walls and ceilings, there are two broad routes: tongue and groove cladding or plywood. Cladding offers a warm, rustic vibe, although it requires more time and money to install. You can choose from various cladding styles—most vanlifers pick standard tongue-and-groove boards. Attach these to furring strips with screws or cladding clips; the latter hide fasteners for a tidy look but take longer to fit.

Ply lining, on the other hand, gives a sleek, modern look in less time. This involves cutting large sheets of ply and securing them to the same sort of furring that’s used for insulation support. Many people use decorative or veneered plywood, which has a glossy finish and doubles as a moisture barrier. If you opt for plain plywood, be sure to paint or seal it to protect against wear and humidity.

Although some van builders experiment with reclaimed or pallet wood, you must be wary of warping, cracks, and possible woodworm. Scrap materials can be heavy and typically hold a high moisture content, which isn’t ideal in a camper’s tightly controlled environment.

Whatever wood you settle on, it’s important to plan where any wiring or sockets will go before you finish your walls.

Finishing and Painting Van Flooring and Lining

When you're finished, it's a good idea to give your chosen panelling a protective finish. Laminate floors often come pre-finished, but cladding or ply can benefit from oils, varnishes, or paint. Danish oil is a popular choice—applied in thin layers with a day between coats, it enriches the grain while adding protection. Throughout the process, keep your van well ventilated, as some finishes off-gas strongly.

Nordvind_Camper_BOLLE_Camper_Vermietung_Ausbau_Hamuburg_Bulli_VW_T5_individuell_Van_Manufa

Images: norvind-camper.de

By being sensible with your material choice and taking your time to fit tidy, well-measured flooring and paneling, you'll create a beautiful aesthetic base for the inside of your van conversion.

Our full article on flooring and paneling contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Full fitting instructions for your floor, walls, doors, and ceiling
Construction tips and techniques
Details on wood finishings
Cost breakdowns

With your wiring and insulation covered and the base for your living space complete, you're ready to fit your water, gas, and heating systems. Read about those in the upcoming sections of our ultimate guide

Drinking, Cleaning, and Waste Water On The Go

Camper van water system planning
Van water system installation
Fresh and grey van water tank fitting
Van water heater and pump choiee
Water filters
Showers and toilets

Water Systems

After your electrical system, your water system the second most important element in a van conversion. A simple van life water system for day-to-day use doesn't need to be more complex than a couple of water tanks, a van water pump, and a tap. Such a system would serve most vanlifers very well, and we'll go over how to plan and install one here. We'll also cover additions which offer greater quality of life and off-grid flexibility, like hot water systems, van water filter options, and showers.

Our Water Systems Masterclass is a comprehensive, step-by-step guide to this stage of converting a van, including:

Supplies lists
Installation instructions and plumbing diagrams
Video courses for all steps

Get your camper van conversion plumbing right first try with the Water Systems Masterclass.

Supplies List

Pipe cutter

PEX piping kit

70l water tank

A selection of ball valves

12V water pump

Accumulator

Mixer tap

Water level sensor

Water filter system

Sink

Gas water heater

All-in-one shower and water heater

Composting toilet

For cutting lengths of water piping

Includes piping, connectors, and tools

Perfect capacity for clean and grey water

For shutting off pipes and drains

For moving water around your system

Reduces wear on the water pump

Running water at your sink

Detects water levels in tanks

Filters and cleans water for drinking

An essential kitchen fitting

Hot water wherever you are

A compact solution for hot showers

The most eco-friendly off-grid toilet

Planning Your Van Conversion Water System

When you begin to plan your water system, the first step is to decide on what you need. Weekend warriors on a shoestring budget could make do with a simple portable water dispenser. Most people will, at minimum, want a sink with running water and a sizeable water tank.

Running water requires a pump, which can be either manual or electric, and water tanks vary in size based on your usage and how many days you want to spend off-grid. Hot water adds complexity, requiring a gas-fired heater and separate hot water pipes. Water filters are likely a good bet for off-grid adventurers, and come in various types. The sky is almost the limit with showers, with options ranging from a simple submersion pump and handheld shower head to a cubicle and recirculating water supply. Understanding what you need, what you can afford, and what you have room for will allow you to plan out your system.

Installing a Water Storage Tank System

A fresh water tank holds the clean water for your campervan—truly the beating heart of any water system. Small tanks (5L or so) sit tidily under the sink, whereas larger ones (up to 75L) can be plumbed in permanently and topped up from an external fill point. You can install the tank either indoors (simpler to fit, safer in winter) or underslung beneath the van (more space inside, but vulnerable in freezing conditions). If you fit an underslung tank, ensure it’s opaque to prevent algae growth.

Image: Dream Big, Travel Far

A large tank normally has four outlets: a filling inlet (connected to a side-mounted water inlet), a vent, an appliance outlet, and a drain. Gravity is the key principle here—place your fill inlet higher than the tank, and your drain lower. Should you prefer American city water hook-ups, a ‘city water entry’ socket reduces incoming pressure to safe levels.

If your tank lacks any pre-drilled outlets, it’s fairly simple to install your own with a hole saw: just match the diameter of your fittings, add the rubber O-ring for a snug seal, and apply sealant. You can also warm the plastic slightly with a blow torch for an even tighter fit.

A grey water tank collects sink and shower run-off and tends to be a bit smaller than your fresh water tank. The fitting process is similar, though many grey water tanks come with an access hatch for cleaning. If not, it’s easy to cut one yourself, seal the edges, and attach a hatch. This setup ensures you’ll have a reliable and sanitary supply of water, both going in and out.

Water Pumps

Campervan water pump setups generally fall into three categories: manual pumps, 12V submersible pumps, and 12V diaphragm pumps. Each offers a different balance of simplicity, price, and performance.

Manual Pumps

You can choose between three types: a baby or button foot pump, a gusher or lever foot pump, and a faucet or hand pump. Manual pumps are extremely easy to install, connecting a single hose to your water container. The baby foot pump is small and budget-friendly but delivers less water; the gusher pump is bigger and more powerful. A faucet pump combines both a tap and manual pumping mechanism—just hook it up and you’re done.

Images: Campervan HQ

12V Submersible Pumps

Submersible pumps are lowered into your fresh water container and paired with a 12V electric (microswitched) tap. They’re cheap, cheerful, and effective for providing cold running water without a bulky external unit.

12V Diaphragm Pumps

For a fully pressurised sink and shower system like what you have at home, a diaphragm pump is the go-to option. It keeps water ready at the tap, switching on automatically when pressure drops. To improve the performance and lifespan of these more expensive pumps, we plumb them up with a handful of other components:

A water strainer filters out debris like sand and grit, which protects the pump over time
An accumulator smooths out the flow of water from the pump, which otherwise comes in spurts. This stops your tap from sputtering, reduces noise, and increases the pump's lifespan
Pump silencers installed at the water tank side and the tap side of the subsystem reduce the noise your pump makes

Shurflo is a popular brand for all these components, and buying everything from them will ensure that your connections are straightforward and that everything works together as it should.

diaphragm water pump plumbing diagram.png

Sinks and Taps

Choosing the right sink and tap for your campervan is more about style and budget than anything else. You can buy a sink only, perfect if you want a unique or decorative basin, although you’ll have to plumb in a separate tap yourself. Alternatively, many people opt for a combined sink and faucet—commonly one with a lid that folds down for extra worktop space. Some come with an extendable tap and a fitted chopping board, making dishwashing and food prep easier.

When installing a sink, you’ll need a drain assembly—usually a basket strainer and a drainpipe leading to your grey water tank. To manage odours, fit a U-bend or a HepVo valve, both of which trap water and stop smells from creeping up your drainpipe. A split drain (using a Y-valve) lets you switch sink waste to either your grey water tank or direct discharge outside, which can be handy in certain locations.

As for taps, you have four basic choices:

Pump Faucet: Integrates a manual pump right into the tap—just fill your fresh water container and start pumping.
Microswitch Faucet: Works with a submersible pump to deliver water when you turn the tap. Typically for cold water only.
Heater Faucet: Similar to a regular faucet but contains an element to heat the water—less common in van builds.
Regular Faucet: Requires pressurised water from a diaphragm pump system. Comes as cold-only or hot/cold taps, each fed by the appropriate PEX lines.

By mixing and matching sinks, taps, and drainage solutions, you can craft a setup that suits your style, space, and pocket.

Hot Water and Showers

Thinking about where and how you’ll shower on the road is vital for a comfortable campervan life—particularly if you’re sharing the space. While some people manage just fine with a quick dunk in a lake, others opt for a full-blown power shower. Unless you roam off-grid for extended periods, have a large van, a hefty water tank, and enough cash for all that plumbing, an indoor cubicle might be an unnecessary luxury. There are other options, however.

Whatever you go with, you'll most likely want hot water to come out of your shower. A van hot water system for showering and washing up is a great luxury, and makes your camper feel more like home.

Shower Options

If you want a fuss-free shower in your campervan without taking up too much space, consider a 12V portable shower. It’s perfect for warm climates: heat a kettle, mix in cold water, drop in the pump, and off you go. For convenience, add an immersion heating rod, so you won’t need to boil water separately. A solar shower bag is another low-tech option, heating up water in the sun—lovely in hot weather, less so in cold.

Those seeking something more permanent will need to look into setting up a van life water heater. Tankless gas heaters deliver almost instant hot water, freeing up space by ditching a storage tank. Ensure you consider ventilation—propane combustion produces carbon monoxide, so buy a vented model if installing indoors. All-in-one, portable units combining a camper van water heater and shower assembly are affordable and require no installation, instead hanging on the outside of your van.

If you’ve got the budget, a diesel combi heater will simultaneously heat your living space with hot air and produce hot water, though at a heftier price.

Images: aboutavan.wordpress.com, Instagram @eyesopen_vanlife_workshop

There are many ways to make showering in a van work. Ultimately, the right system hinges on how often and where you shower, plus your available space, water, and budget.

Our full article on campervan showers and water heaters contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Plumbing diagrams for every aspect of the shower system
Key specs on water heating times, water consumption, and fuel efficiency
Product recommendations
Instructions on how to build a shower cubicle in your van

Water Filter Systems

Choosing an RV water filter system is all about ensuring your water tastes great and is safe to drink—no matter where you fill up. Contaminants can include sediment, heavy metals, industrial chemicals, bacteria, and viruses. A decent filter arrangement protects your pipes, pumps, and tanks from build-up, while also giving you clean-tasting water.

Filtration Types

Sediment Filters: Trap dirt and rust, prolonging the life of downstream filters.
Carbon Filters: Remove chemicals, chlorine, and some heavy metals, boosting flavour and reducing odours.
Ceramic Filters: Block bacteria, protozoa, and most viruses; ideal for travellers unsure of water cleanliness.
Reverse Osmosis & UV: Provide near-total sterilisation, but require more complex installation, power, and higher costs.

Images: etrailer.com, Harvest Hosts

Filter Formats

In Line: Tucks directly into your water line. Compact and straightforward, but often limited to basic sediment and chemical filtration.
Canister & Under Sink: Larger, more robust systems that allow for multi-stage filtration. Some have separate cartridges for sediment, chemicals, and microbes, improving efficiency and reducing ongoing costs.
3 Stage Systems: Combine sediment, chemical, and microorganism filtration in three canisters for comprehensive coverage.

Ultimately, decide how thorough you need your water filtering to be. If you’re just looking to improve taste, a simpler sediment-and-chemical filter may suffice. But if you want complete peace of mind—especially if refilling from rivers or wells—a more comprehensive multi-stage setup with possible UV or reverse osmosis might be worth the extra effort.

Our full article on campervan water filters contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Details of all filtration types
Installation instructions
Tips on maintenance and care
Product recommendations

Toilets

Putting a toilet in your van conversion may not be absolutely essential, but for many people—especially long-term or off-grid travellers—it’s a huge convenience. Space, budget, and frequency of use are all key considerations. In our 2023 Roaming Home study, we found that 80% of vanlifers had a toilet, with chemical cassette models topping the list; however, composting toilets are on the rise.

Types of Campervan Toilets

Portable Bucket: Minimal, foldable, and dirt cheap—though not the most glamorous.
Chemical Cassette: A more “proper” toilet that holds waste in a removable tank, which you empty at designated points. Some feature a SOG ventilation system, greatly reducing odours.
Composting: Separates liquids and solids, can go 60–80 uses before needing to be emptied, and is almost smell-free.
Dry Flush: Wraps and seals waste in individual bags, requiring no water or chemicals.
Other Options: Incinerating and vacuum-flush toilets exist, but are less common in campers.

Image: explorist.life

Our full article on campervan toilets contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Details of a wide range of converted campervan toilet types
Cost breakdowns
Installation guidelines
Care and maintenance
Product recommendations
Toilet alternatives
Waste disposal options and regulations by country

Your van conversion's water system is a major project, but it doesn't have to be a headache. With proper planning, an understanding of the components, and good plumbing practices, it can be a fun and rewarding project that adds essential home comforts to your van. Our full article on campervan water systems covers plumbing diagrams for a selection of different systems, as well as detailed diagrams for individual elements of the overall system. It also includes detailed installation and fitting instructions, a full breakdown of plumbing, piping, and fitting techniques, wiring diagrams for the electrical components, and a lot more.

Our full article on campervan water systems contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Plumbing diagrams for multiple water system types
Plumbing diagrams for individual system elements
Installation and fitting instructions
Full breakdowns of plumbing, piping, and fitting techniques
Wiring diagrams for electrical components
Care and maintenance
Product recommendations

With your water system sorted, you're ready to move on to a closely related system: gas and heating.

Cooking and Cosiness in Your Home on Wheels

Installation of an LPG tank and gas plumbing
Finishing your kitchen with a gas hob
Space heaters
Gas safety: carbon monoxide and venting

Gas and Heating

A camper gas system is the final important utility to set up in your van conversion, giving you, at minimum, heating and cooking gas. Many people also want hot water in their vans, as discussed shortly in the previous section. We'll go into that here as well. We'll also cover other options for space heating, like fitting a diesel heater in a van and how to install a woodburning stove.

Our Gas Systems Masterclass is a comprehensive, step-by-step guide to this stage of converting a van, including:

Supplies lists
Installation diagrams and charts
Video courses for all steps

Get your camper van conversion gas system right first try with the Gas Systems Masterclass.

Supplies List

Refillable LPG cylinder

LPG refill adapter set

Pigtail hose

30mbar gas regulator

Truma LevelCheck

Gas bottle strap

8mm copper pipe

Copper pipe cutter

Copper pipe bender

Selection of compression fittings

Jointing compound

LPG heater

Diesel heater

Smoke and carbon monixide detector

Flammable gas detector

Mini fire extinguisher

Refill gas without replacing the canister

Refill gas in any European country

Connects LPG cylinder to rest of system

Regulates pressure in your gas system

Easily monitor gas levels

Regulatory requirement, secures LPG tank

For connecting LPG components

For cutting lengths of copper pipe

For putting bends in copper pipe

For making joints in piping

For sealing compression fittings

LPG-powered space heater kit

Diesel-powered space heater kit

Essential when burning gas indoors

Protects you against LPG leaks

Essential when burning anything indoors

Basic Principles for Campervan Gas System Installations

If you’re serious about making your campervan feel like home, having a gas system for appliances can be a game changer—allowing you to run a stove, space heater, water heater, and certain kinds of fridge with minimal electricity usage. In practice, the system is fairly straightforward: a gas bottle feeds pipes that supply your chosen appliances. The main decision is whether to go for a replaceable bottle or a refillable one.

Replaceable vs. Refillable Gas Bottles

Replaceable: Common brands include Calor, Campingaz, and Flogas. You unscrew the empty bottle and exchange it for a full one—straightforward but more costly over time, as you're paying for the bottle each time, not just the gas inside. A 5kg replaceable can cost around €30 per refill, which is roughly six times more expensive than a comparable refillable fill-up.
Refillable: Systems like Gaslow and Alugas are permanent and topped up at an LPG filling station via a side-mounted fill point (discussed in our metalwork section). Though initially pricier and more technical to install, they’re far cheaper over time, especially if you rely heavily on gas. Refilling in this way is also much more convenient, and allows you to stash your gas bottle somewhere more out of reach.

Image: Harbour Creek Motorhomes

Regulators and Pressure

Central to your setup is the gas regulator, which lowers high bottle pressure (potentially exceeding 10bar) to 30mbar so that standard campervan appliances can run safely.

Single Stage Regulators: Simple, bottle-mounted, and more temporary—better for occasional use. They reduce pressure in one go, but aren’t always precise and generally only handle one gas type (propane or butane).
Two Stage Regulators: Often called “bulkhead regulators,” they mount on a wall or locker surface, reducing pressure in two steps for smoother, more consistent output. They’re the only appropriate gas regulator for camper installation, especially if you might switch between propane and butane or experience wide temperature swings.

Usage and Lifespan

A typical 11kg bottle might last six months if you only cook on a gas hob, but powering an LPG heater or 3-way fridge can shorten that to a month or less. Be aware of seasonal changes and your specific needs—heavier heater usage in winter can drain supplies rapidly.

Other Installation Components

High-pressure Pigtail Hose: channels high-pressure gas from the filling point to the bottles and from the bottles to the regulator. Flexible braided metal gas hoses are rated to high pressure and can withstand changes in pressure due to temperature.

Copper Piping: channels low-pressure gas from the regulator to our gas components. Copper piping is required under British and European standards for gas installations. Rigid and long-lasting, gas piping is cut with a pipe cutting tool and bent with a pipe bending tool. Bends are preferable to elbow connectors, as connectors are weak points which can leak or fail over time.

Gas Manifold: a multi-way assembly of valves that lets you isolate each appliance with its own valve. This allows for safe shutting off of appliances and troubleshooting in the event of a leak or failure.

Gas Lockers and Safety

UK rules require your gas bottles to be installed in a dedicated gas locker, which is an isolated, protective container with a sealed door. You're allowed up to two 16kg bottles per locker, which must have a drop-out vent (2% of its floor area) and secure straps for each bottle. You can buy a pre-made locker that adheres to all appropriate regulations, or build your own.

A carbon monoxide detector, gas leak alarm, and fire extinguisher are required in most countries, and are essential safety features when you're using gas in a van conversion. Once again, ventilation is essential when dealing with gas. In addition to a drop-out vent, unpowered vents near the floor and a powered fan in the roof replenish oxygen burnt by gas appliances, reduce the danger in the event of a leak, and evacuate water vapour from the burning of gas.

Finally, consider a professional to install or inspect your system—there’s no safer way to ensure your campervan gas installation is solid.

Our full article on van conversion gas systems contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Building your own DIY gas locker
How to work with copper pipe
Full explanation of pipe cutting, pipe bending, gas connectors, and gas fittings
Step-by-step installation guide for a Gaslow refillable LPG canister system
Leak testing and general troubleshooting

Installing a Gas Hob

A campervan stove is a core component of a functional van kitchen, whether it’s integrated with a sink or fitted as a standalone hob. Typically, a simple two-burner gas hob includes a piezo (electrical) ignition for easy lighting, while more comprehensive kits may also have a gas regulator, piping and connectors, and reinforced glass lids for extra workspace.

Installation Steps

Prepare the Worktop
Choose a sturdy kitchen surface that can withstand regular use and wear.
Trace the Template
Use the cardboard template (provided with most stoves) to outline the hole. Mark it on your worktop with a pencil.
Cut the Opening
Drill a starter hole for the jigsaw blade, then cut along the outline. Protect the finish by applying masking tape or cutting from underneath.
Mount the Stove
Drop the unit into the cavity and secure it with screws. You may need to countersink each screw to ensure the hob sits flush.
Wire the Ignition (If Needed)
Some models lack a built-in piezo ignition. In that case, connect the ignition to your leisure battery according to the manufacturer’s wiring instructions.
Connect the Gas
Adhering to BS EN 1949:2021, use copper pipe and brass compression fittings. Seal threads with jointing compound and tighten properly. Always test for leaks before cooking that well-deserved first meal.

Our full article on installing a gas stove in your camper van conversion contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Step-by-step instructions for installing a combined sink and stove
Images of all steps from Shane's own installation
Product recommendations
Testing and troubleshooting

Campervan Heating

A campervan heater is essential if you'll be spending any amount of time in your van outside of summer. After all, what's a home if it isn't warm? In the Roaming Home 2023 study, we found that 91% of vanlifers had a heater installed—75% ran on diesel, 22% on LPG, with a small but dedicated band using woodburners. Your choice often boils down to cost, performance, and personal preference.

LPG vs. Diesel

For most vanlifers, the choice is between a van diesel heater and an LPG (propane) heater.

Fuel Cost: LPG’s cheaper per litre than diesel, though diesel contains more heat energy.
Fuel Refilling: LPG tanks are inconvenient to refill unless you have a refillable system. Keeping your diesel heater running is as simple as keeping your van's fuel tank topped up, which you'll be doing anyway.
Price: Propex (LPG) units tend to be pricier than most diesel heaters.
Complexity: Diesel requires drilling into your existing fuel tank, whereas LPG heaters connect to the LPG tanks you likely already have installed for your stove.
Exhausts and Venting: LPG heaters produce CO2 and water vapour as their byproducts, requiring no dedicated exhaust. Diesel heaters produce the same diesel fumes as your van's engine, and thus need an exhaust.
Noise & Warm-up: Diesel heaters can be louder and take a bit longer to heat up, whereas LPG heaters are fairly quiet and quick.
Altitude: LPG copes better above 1,500m.
Power Consumption: LPG appliances usually draw slightly less electricity, although differences vary by brand.
Cleaning and Maintenance: Due to LPG's cleaner burn, LPG heaters require almost no maintenance. Diesel heaters, on the other hand, produce particulates in their exhaust, especially in very cold temperatures, higher altitudes, and with stop-start usage. Diesel heaters must therefore be run on high periodically to clean out the exhaust, and should be cleaned out by hand every couple of years.

Image: Propex Heatsource

LPG Heaters

The two best-known manufacturers of LPG heaters are Propex/Heatsource and Truma. The Propex HS2000 is a favourite gas heater for camper vans due to its reliable heat output of around 1.9kW, plus a thermostat to keep things cosy at all hours. The larger HS2800 delivers 2.8kW for bigger vans or harsher conditions, yet remains straightforward to use.

Another popular LPG option is the Truma Varioheat Eco, which offers more power (up to 2.8kW) and adjustable blower settings, albeit at a higher price and greater electrical draw.

Installation of LPG heaters is fairly simple, requiring the connection of the gas supply, the positioning of air intakes and vents inside your van, and connection to an electricity supply.

LPG heaters are popular due to their comparatively simple installation, quiet running, lack of exhaust, and maintenance-free operation. Once installed, you'll have a convenient heating solution that quietly keeps your van cosy through the coldest winter nights.

Our full article on LPG heaters contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Detailed product comparisons
Choosing an LPG heater for your camper van conversion
Step-by-step installation guide for the Propex HS2000
Troubleshooting and maintenance

In-Van Diesel Heater Installation

Diesel heaters offer a reliable and cost-effective way to keep your campervan warm. Many choose a diesel heater for van life because: diesel’s simple to source (it’s already in your fuel tank), it’s highly efficient, and it’s safer than LPG because it’s less volatile.

Van Diesel Heater Explained

A diesel heater draws fuel, ignites it to warm a heat exchanger, and uses a fan to blow heated air into your van. Exhaust fumes vent safely outside, and most models feature built-in safety features such as automatic shut-off if fuel flow or airflow is disrupted. You can also find versions designed for petrol rather than diesel.

Image: Airtronic

Types of Diesel Heaters

Air Heater: The simplest, blowing warm air directly into your van.
Combi Air & Water Heater: Supplies both hot air and hot water, useful if you want a shower or sink with hot taps.
Hydronic Heater: In addition to burning diesel, these also reuse excess engine heat after you stop driving for extra efficiency. Circulates heated fluid through a calorifier to heat water and air, and can also integrate with radiators or underfloor heating.

Diesel Heater Sizes

A 2kW heater suits most small-to-medium vans, consuming around 0.10–0.24 litres of diesel per hour. Larger 4–5kW heaters can use up to 0.55 litres hourly but quickly warm bigger spaces or very cold environments. Proper insulation and altitude adjustments (if you’re often above 1,500m) help your heater run smoothly and avoid carbon build-up.

Popular Brands

Eberspacher Airtronic: Known for quiet operation, efficient fuel use, and built-in altitude adjustments.
Webasto AirTop: Similar reputation, with models ranging from 0.9–5kW and low noise levels.
Planar Autoterm: A budget-friendly mid-tier brand.
Chinese Heaters: Cheaper, though inconsistent quality means you could be unlucky with a faulty unit—look for good reviews and solid return policies if you go this route.

Images: Airtronic, Webasto, Silvel

A well-chosen and properly installed diesel heater provides warmth without consuming too much fuel or drawing heavily on your batteries. Make sure you follow best practices for installation, run it properly to avoid soot, and keep an eye on your altitude if you’re heading into the mountains.

Our full article on diesel heaters contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Step-by-step guide for installing a diesel heater in a van
Buying guide
Product comparison by key specs including fuel efficiency and power usage
Care and maintenance
Safety and regulations
Quality-of-life upgrades

Building Your Interior Space

Planning your interior layout
Building camper van kitchen units
Campervan bed ideas
Campervan table setups
Bulkhead storage, overhead cupboards, and wardrobes

DIY Campervan Furniture

Campervan furniture is the step that turns your van conversion into a comfortable living space. We hope you took the time to familiarise yourself with your woodworking tools in the cladding and flooring section, because we'll be taking it up a notch here. In this section, we'll look at all the fundamental carpentry techniques you'll need to furnish your van conversion, as well as tools for planning an ergonomic and efficient layout. We'll look at campervan bed ideas, campervan kitchen layouts, and a variety of campervan storage solutions. By the end, your campervan will be almost finished, with only decoration and finishing touches left to do before getting out on the road.

Our Carpentry Masterclass is a comprehensive, step-by-step guide to this stage of converting a van, including:

Supplies lists
Furniture diagrams and dimension charts
Video courses for all steps

Get your camper van conversion carpentry right first try with the Carpentry Masterclass.

Supplies List

The supplies list is the same as for the cladding and flooring section, but we've added a couple of tools that are very useful for making proper cabinets and furniture frames.

A power drill of at least 500W

A jigsaw

A selection of clamps

A circular saw

An orbital sander

A mitre box

Wood glue

A woodworking table

A selection of sandpaper

Measuring tape

A chalk line

A carpenter's square

A scribe tool

Router

Router bit set

Ratchet set

Spanner set

For drilling holes and driving screws

For cutting straight and curved lines

For holding things in place during drying

For straight-line cutting

For quickly refining cuts and surfaces

For making accurate angled cuts

For binding wood to flat surfaces

For comfortable working

For tidying edges and drilled holes

For measuring cuts

For marking long straight cuts

For marking accurate 90 degree cuts

For marking cuts flush to irregular surfaces

For bevels and grooves

For making cuts of different shapes

For nuts and bolts

Carpentry Techniques and Planning Your Layout

Thorough planning before building anything will be rewarded in spades by avoiding having to re-do things because they're shoddily built or laid out in a way that doesn't suit everyday life.

Woodworking Tools

First, familiarise yourself with your tools. The tools you'll be making heavy use of are:

Wood drill and screwdriver
Circular saw
Jigsaw
Router
Orbital sander

Each of these tools needs to be used in a certain way in order to achieve the best results. Our complete guide on campervan furniture goes over these tools and techniques in detail. In that guide, we also cover essential carpentry principles such as:

How to measure and cut wood like a pro
How to use a scribe tool to cut wood flush against irregular surfaces
Types of wood and lumber, what they're best used for, and how to work with them
How to join wood using wood glue
How to sand wood
Bevels, mitres, and joinery techniques
Cabinetry
Drawers, doors, hinges, and catches
Staining and colouring wood
Other essential tips

Image: z2overland.com

Planning Your Layout

We already discussed planning your furniture layout way back in the planning section, but it's worth revisiting those ideas here. Now that your van is insulated with the major components and utilities installed, do you still want the furniture to be exactly like you planned it out at the beginning? Let's reiterate the principles of layout planning here.

Initial Sketches & Layout
Sketch a rough floor plan on paper (scaling helps: 1:5 or 1:20 for metric; 1:4 or 1:24 for imperial).
Re-measure for insulation and cladding thickness, and consider bed orientation and weight distribution.
Technical Drawings & CAD
Software like SketchUp or Vanspace3D gives precise 3D models. Vanspace3D comes loaded with van templates and drag-and-drop features.
Testing the Layout
Measure your interior van dimensions thoroughly and lay painter’s tape down where fixtures (bed, kitchen, storage) will go.
If possible, place actual components or cardboard mockups inside to see how everything fits.

We highly recommend Vanspace3D as a tool for exploring and refining van conversion layouts. Vanspace3D allows you to create floor plans inside accurate 3D models of all popular base vans. The capability to drag and drop furniture modules around and save them for use in other mock-ups saves a huge amount of time and makes exploring and iterating on layouts a fun project. Check out Vanspace3D today and kickstart your van conversion.

Our full article on designing van conversion layouts contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

A pack of 30 free converted campervan blueprints
Inspiration boards
Supplies lists
Details on furniture dimensions
Tips for testing layouts for your van for vanlife

Your Campervan Kitchen Unit

If you've already installed a sink and stove, your campervan kitchen cabinets may already be partly in place. Besides housing the sink and stove, a kitchen unit also incorporates worktops, the fridge, cutlery drawers, and storage cabinets.

As with all other furniture elements, it's important to consider the ergonomics of your kitchen. You need to be able to open and close all doors and drawers within the confined space of your van, and they all need to be easily accessible without banging your head or hurting your back.

Planning and Building Your Kitchen Unit

As with all camper furniture units, you first need to plan the functionality of your kitchen unit. Yours might incorporate:

Fridge
Stove
Oven
Sink
Water tanks
LPG tank
Air/water heater
Overhead kitchen cabinets
Drawers and storage compartments
Pull-out pantry
Cutting board
Built-in spice rack
A worktop with room for a coffee maker, kettle, toaster, blender etc.
Food storage containers
Utensil organiser
Dish rack
Rubbish bins

Make sure you've planned out your components and where they'll go before you begin.

Step 1: Building the carcassing frame

Using 2x1 timber instead of 2x2 to keep weight down, build the basic frame for your kitchen unit. Use butt joints and plenty of pocket hole joints, checking each corner with a carpenter’s square to ensure everything is at 90°.

Step 2: Ply-lining the back of the unit and separating the compartments

If the unit goes against a wall, you could skip lining to shave off some weight. If your unit will separate the cab from the living area, add foam board insulation before covering with ply. Partition off the individual compartments with more plywood.

Step 3: Install the worktop

Use a sharp circular saw (avoid high-tooth blades) with cutting fluid for better lubrication. Measure carefully for your sink and stove cut-out, taking into account worktop space and space for mounting any worktop shelves or storage. Secure the top with wood glue and clamp it as it dries.

Step 4: Build and fit the doors and drawers

Tongue and groove gives a rustic feel to the front face of your unit, and is secured with horizontal battens, strap hinges, and door knobs with magnetic catches. A final flourish of stripwood around the edges completes the look.

Our full article on building a kitchen unit contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Step-by-step build guide with pictures from Shane's own build
Details on ergonomic design
Example blueprints for a layout that works within a van's confined space

Campervan Bed Systems and Seating

A campervan bed is the heart of any conversion, so it’s wise to design it before anything else. Bear in mind how insulation and cladding will reduce your available space – the depth of these layers can eat into your bed dimensions.

When choosing which way to sleep, remember that if you’re over 5’9”, you’ll likely need to sleep lengthways. Sleeping sideways is possible in certain vans, but the added insulation can make it a squeeze. Two popular ways to gain precious centimetres are:

Bed Cutouts: Reducing insulation at your head and feet for extra length, though you’ll sacrifice warmth in that area.
Campervan Flares: Adding protruding panels like those from Flarespace, which increase the van’s lateral width.

Image: Instagram @traceythetransit

Campervan Bed Types

Several campervan bed frame styles are common:

Fixed Bed: The simplest and most popular DIY campervan bed, offering ample storage underneath but taking up a lot of space.
Campervan Table Bed (Dinette): Shane's personal favourite, with a table on a marine pedestal that converts into a bed each evening. It’s spacious, versatile, and ideal for having friends over.
Folding Bed: A sofa by day and bed by night. Easy to build, but requires daily setup.
Pull Out Campervan Bed: Stows upright in the wall, freeing up daytime living space, though it has no under-bed storage.
Rock and Roll Bed: Great for smaller vans and passenger seating; it quickly converts between bench and bed.
Sliding Campervan Bed: Slides into itself for a compact daytime footprint. Careful measuring is key so the slats glide smoothly.
L-Couch Bed: An L-shaped sofa that pulls out into a bed, providing relaxed daytime lounging with space for a separate table.

The last step in building your bed is to figure out your mattress. Depending on your layout, the mattress might be solid and in one piece, foldable, or in multiple pieces. Memory foam mattresses are easy to cut to shape and can be upholstered at home or by a professional. If you’d rather skip the DIY route, companies like RoamRest offer made-to-measure campervan mattresses to fit any layout.

Our full article on how to build a campervan bed contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Step-by-step build guide for every one of the above campervan bed construction ideas
Materials advice and measurements for DIYers
Buying advice for those looking to buy pre-built
Campervan bunk bed ideas
Bed lift systems
Hammocks

Campervan Storage Solutions

Storage in a campervan is both scarce and sacred, making it essential to plan every inch wisely. Poorly designed storage can lead to awkward ergonomics and daily frustration, so think carefully about how you’ll access and organise your belongings. Below are the key tips for creating optimal campervan storage:

Utilise Vertical Space: Overhead cabinets and shelves are brilliant for lighter items, like clothing or kitchen supplies. Ensure they’re firmly secured to handle bumps on the road.
Under-Bed Storage: A platform bed with drawers or sliding compartments underneath makes fantastic use of that hidden space.
Multi-Functional Furniture: Seating with built-in storage, fold-out tables, and convertible beds help you save space without sacrificing functionality.
Packing Cubes and Baskets: Ideal for keeping small items neat and easy to find. They prevent clutter and fit neatly in cabinets, overhead lockers, or under the bed.
Hooks and Racks: Hang jackets, bags, utensils, and even bikes to free up floor space.
Foldable and Collapsible Items: Chairs, tables, or kitchenware that fold away can make a real difference in cramped quarters.
Use Every Nook: Wheel wells, ceiling cavities, and the area under seats can be customised for extra storage.
Magnetic Strips and Pegboards: Keep metal tools and utensils at your fingertips without cluttering drawers.
Sliding Drawers and Pull-Out Shelves: Access deep cabinets without rummaging through everything.
Rooftop Storage: Stash seldom-used items or bulky gear in cargo boxes or on roof racks.

Overhead Lockers

Campervan overhead cupboards are a brilliant way to transform an awkward area into a practical storage solution, ensuring no inch of space goes to waste. Most van builders put two overhead lockers in their build, one on each side of the van. They’re perfect for stashing lighter items and make the most of the van’s vertical real estate.

Image: faroutride.com

Our build guide for overhead lockers contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Step-by-step build guide
Illustrated with pictures from Shane's own build

Bulkhead Storage

The bulkhead area above the driver’s seat can feel like a dead zone, but with a bit of creativity, it becomes a large cabinet. By fitting it with two doors, you can make it ideal for storing food and kitchenware. This once-empty cavity can be turned into a genuinely useful, spacious storage feature.

Our build guide for bulkhead storage contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Step-by-step build guide
Illustrated with pictures from Shane's own build

Cupboards and Wardrobes

If you need room for clothes, electronics, or even more food, a standard campervan cupboard (or wardrobe) is a must. Even in a long wheelbase van, you might be torn between installing a shower or a cupboard. For those hauling a fair bit of outdoor gear, a cupboard is likely to be the smart choice. It's a comparatively simple build using the carcassing method for a sturdy, reliable structure.

Our build guide for cupboards and wardrobes contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Step-by-step build guide
Illustrated with pictures from Shane's own build

These are the main storage units you'll be building in your campervan. Other storage solutions include hanging nets for loose items, mason jars, spice racks, and knife holders for rounding out your kitchen, secret storage compartments for storing valuables, shoe storage, bungee cord pockets, and innovative rear door storage solutions.

Our full article on campervan storage ideas contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

20 innovative storage ideas
Build and installation guides
Product recommendations
Inspiration boards

With your van conversion's living space finished, your van is finally ready to head out on the road. Our last section covers the final touches that really make your van a place for everyday living. We'll look at decoration, personalisation, window treatments, and the security measures that will protect your van from break-ins.

Converting Your Van With Style

Campervan curtains and window covers
Personalised lighting
Camper decorating and accessories
Campervan security

Furnishings and Final Touches

Take a moment to relax; your van conversion is essentially finished. All that's left is to add the decorations and finishing touches that will make it your home. We'd even recommend that you pause here and take your van out for a trip or two. By actually using the van, you'll quickly notice anything that needs tweaking and anything that's still missing. In this section, we'll get inspired by looking at camper interior decorating ideas, campervan window covers, curtains, and blinds, and some recommended accessories. We'll also go over the security measures that you can put in place to protect your brand new camper conversion from theft and damage.

Supplies List

Strip lighting

Insulating window covers

Motorhome window curtains

Storage nets

Floor rug

Camping chairs

Leveling ramps

Bike rack

Magnetic drinkware set

Indoor-outdoor camping blanket

Folding barbecue

Mini projector

Mobile Wi-Fi router

Steering wheel lock

Exterior deadlock

GPS tracker

Dimmable custom mood lighting

Block light and keep heat in

Privacy without complete blocking

Aesthetic storage for loose items

Comfy for feet on cold nights

Stowable outdoor seating

Keeps your van level on uneven ground

Easily removable bike storage

Prevents spills on uneven surfaces

Water-resistant and stowable

Packs flat for easy storage

An excellent alternative to a full-sized TV

Essential for remote workers

Prevents your van from being driven away

Added protection from break-ins

Locate your van if the worst happens

Campervan Window Treatments

As discussed in our insulation section, glass and acrylic have terrible insulative properties, letting heat in when you want to keep it out and letting heat out when you want to keep it in. In addition, windows provide a perfect opportunity for potential thieves to scope out the inside of your van conversion for any valuables, and broadcast your presence far and wide if you're parked up somewhere you're not sure you should be.

Images: Campervan HQ

For this reason, it's essential that we cover up our windows. Most vanlifers install both normal motorhome privacy curtains like you have at home and insulating window covers. The curtains are great when you're awake in your camper, offering privacy and shade without completely isolating you from the outside world. Window covers keep the warmth in overnight and close your van to prying eyes when you're not in. The best window covers, like those made by VanEssential, double as curtains, with a layered design that allows you to roll up the insulation whilst leaving a privacy screen.

RV Decorating Ideas

Decorating your camper largely depends on your personal style. The best kinds of decoration are things that don't move around too much, or which won't fall over - think wall hangings and posters, fairy lights, dream catchers, colourful rugs, cushions, blankets, and the like. Consider framed pictures which screw into your cladding, or photo collages affixed with pins. Mirrors multiply the sense of light and space, and hanging flags or bunting add colour.

Many people want plants in their van. This can work, but you have to be very realistic about how much things will move around whilst you drive. Unless they're very light, plant pots need to be on a solid surface: a countertop rather than a shelf. Pots should be supported at least up to half height, on all sides. Finally, be aware that many plants will freeze and die if your van drops below 0°C.

Shane built a dedicated terrarium in his van, which is integrated into his kitchen unit to ensure it won't budge.

Personalised Lighting

We discussed lighting in our electrics section, but it's worth mentioning again. Besides your main lighting, mood and ambient lighting changes the atmosphere of your campervan and is easy to put in place even when everything else is done.

Dimmable LEDs with temperature settings are very cheap and easy to wire these days. Using these, you can create zones in your van based on the feeling of the lighting: a work area with brighter, whiter light; a relaxation area with warm, more diffuse light; and floor-level or under-counter lighting for an ambient underglow. By installing lighting with a Bluetooth controller, you can make all of this customisable from your phone.

Image: fogcampers.com, camperdreamin.com

The other way to get creative with lighting is with lighting on automatic timers or which turns on based on set triggers. Timer-based smart lighting could work the same way blue light filters work on screens: lighting that progressively gets brighter and whiter as you wake up, stays that way over the day, and dims and gets warmer in the evening. There are apps that allow you to set this up so it synchronises with daylight times wherever you are.

Trigger-based lighting is simple to set up with a couple of smart devices. Door sensors can be wired up to lighting, turning it on when you open the door. Alternatively, you can wire your lights to your van's courtesy light system, which turns on the lights in the drivers' compartment when you unlock the vehicle. Geofenced lighting activates when it detects your phone approaching, welcoming you home from a day out.

We have a section in our article on 12V lighting dedicated to smart lighting and lighting zones. Take a look and see what inspires you.

Our full article on campervan LED lighting contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Wiring instructions and diagrams for every kind of 12V lighting
Fusing your lights
Lighting system inspiration
How to set up layered and smart lighting solutions

Campervan Security Systems

In 2022, over 58,000 vehicles were stolen in the UK—roughly 1,117 each week—so camper van security is definitely worth taking seriously. Whilst modern immobilisers mean hotwiring isn’t the biggest worry anymore, the theft of belongings still is.

Basic Security Tips

Keep Valuables Hidden: Don’t tempt thieves by leaving phones or laptops on show.
Park in Well-lit Areas: Street lighting is proven to reduce crime, so find a bright spot whenever possible.
Be Aware of Location: Cities have higher theft rates than rural areas.
Camp Considerately: Don’t leave gear unattended at campsites, as items vanish all too easily.
Phone Back-ups: Storing insurance details and vehicle documents on your phone helps you sort problems faster.

Physical Security Measures

Mechanical Locks: Steering wheel locks, clutch locks, and wheel clamps are visible deterrents.
Upgraded Door Locks: Deadlocks and sliding door locks add an extra line of defence.
Alarms: Motion sensor and glass shatter alarms both work wonders, scaring off intruders and alerting others.
Security Cameras: There are many rechargeable or 12V cameras on the market that provide high-resolution footage and motion-activated live-streaming, ideal as a deterrent and for peace of mind.
Curtains & Tints: If thieves can’t see in, they’re less likely to break in. An 80% tint makes your windows essentially impenetrable from the outside whilst still letting in plenty of light.
GPS Tracker: Possibly the most critical tool if your van does get pinched; you’ll know exactly where it is.

Extra Deterrents

Stickers & Vinyl: Stickers advertising your security measures, whether you have them or not, help to put thieves off.
Motion Sensor Exterior Lights: Bright lights reduce crime, especially in darker areas.

The key to security is to keep it simple and visible. Choose two or three solid solutions like a mechanical immobiliser (steering wheel lock or wheel clamp) combined with secondary door locks. Advertise their presence with stickers, and finish up with a GPS tracker hidden somewhere in the undercarriage.

Our full article on campervan security solutions contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

Details on all of the above mentioned security measures
Additional options for campervan security
Product recommendations

Vanlife Accessories

Now that you're almost ready to hit the road, it's worth considering the accessories that will make your travels more enjoyable. Some of these items adapt home comforts for life in a van, allowing you to retain the most important elements of your day-to-day. Others allow you to get more out of the natural world that's suddenly at your doorstep. We can also recommend a handful of innovative solutions to problems that are inherent to off-grid life.

The Aeropress is a camping gadget that makes perfect, moka pot-style coffee with hot water from a kettle. All the pieces pack together into a tough, compact whole which takes up minimal space in your drawer.

Camping chairs are a must for any van conversion, but are often overlooked. Choose a set with 4 separate legs for stability, and a bit of padding for comfort and keeping out draughts.

Leveling ramps are another essential item that most vanlifers don't realise they need. By rolling your van onto them, you can be parked perfectly level even on sloping or uneven ground.

Portable barbecues aren't a revelation, but many vanlifers make the mistake of packing one which takes up far too much space and rattles around as you drive. Buy one that folds and packs down flat and you'll find you can slot it almost anywhere when you're not using it.

Portable projectors are incredibly impressive these days, and do a handy job of replacing HD televisions. A projector adapted for van use will have a large rechargeable battery and a short minimal range for use in a cramped space.

E-readers are a camper's best friend, whether in a van or a tent. Whilst a bookshelf is part of any home, you can't bring your whole library on the road. E-readers have incredible battery lives and take up almost no space at all.

The Scrubba wash bag is a fabulous piece of kit: it's a waterproof stuff sack with a textured interior that allows you to manually wash your clothes. It packs down to next to nothing when not in use, and is an eco-friendly way of washing clothes between stops at campsites.

There are many ideas out there for electricity-free showering. For our money, the best solution is the simplest. A simple bag which quickly heats water in the sun can be hung from a tree or your back doors whilst you shower underneath.

Finally, we at The Van Conversion love our coconut bowls. They're lightweight and eco-friendly and, crucially, will never chip or crack as they rattle around in your drawers.

Our full article on converted campervan accessories contains much more information on this stage of converting a van, including:

30 recommended vanlife accessories
Vanlife tech
Comfort enhancers
Outdoor gear
Eco-friendly alternatives to products you use at home

With your van conversion decorated, secured, and kitted out with everything you need for life on the road, your van conversion is finished. Congratulations on seeing such a big and varied project through to the end. Now, it's time to reap the rewards. In the next section, we'll impart one or two final tips for handling the practicalities of your new lifestyle before sending you out into the big wide world.

Taking up the Van Life

Being a responsible vanlifer
Storing your van between trips
Share the adVANture

The Open Road Awaits

Now that you're ready for life on the road, there are the practicalities to take care of. In this section, we'll go over what it means to be a responsible vanlifer, and some of the challenges you might face on your travels. We'll also give you tips for storing your van if you don't have the luxury of a private driveway or garage. Finally, we'll tell you how you can share your van conversion stories with us, so we can all take part in the big adventure.

Image: vanclan.co

How to Live in a Van: An Introduction to Vanlife

Vanlife is an incredible way to explore the world, but it also calls for creative solutions to everyday challenges. Let’s delve into some tips and tricks for staying comfortable, clean, and connected on the road.

Filling Up on Essentials

LPG: You can fill refillable cylinders (like the Gaslow system we discussed in our gas section) at petrol stations with an LPG pump, or pick up replaceable bottles. MyLPG.eu is an excellent app for finding stations.
Water: Try campsites, public taps, and even friendly locals for topping up your water tanks. Apps like WeTap and Water-Map are handy for discovering free sources. A water filter system, discussed in our water section, will give you the flexibility to fill up from sources that aren't designated as drinking water, like petrol station hosepipes.
Campervan Toilets: Empty your loo at designated dumping stations in campgrounds, truck stops, or local sanitation facilities, and always follow proper disposal procedures. Like we saw in our toilets section, a composting toilet needs emptying far less frequently than a chemical toilet, and doesn't use chemicals that are harmful to the environment.

Staying Clean

Showering: We discussed showers in our water section, and saw that there are many options to choose from based on space, budget, and the size of your water tanks. If you don’t have an onboard shower, gyms, motorway rest stops, public pools, or even hostels often offer shower facilities. In a pinch, baby wipes (biodegradable, of course) can keep you fresh for a short time.
Laundry: Laundrettes and campsite facilities are your best bet, but you can also hand-wash in a bucket or sink. We love the Scrubba wash bag for a simple, compact hand-washing solution.

Image: Instagram @thescrubba

Drying Clothes

Outdoors: A clothesline, drying rack, or even spreading items on the ground in the sun works well.
Indoors: Use a dehumidifier or hang things near heating vents if the weather’s grim. A well-placed heater, like those discussed in our LPG and diesel heaters section, will dry clothes quickly. A woodburning stove's dry, powerful heating is unmatched for this purpose. As we talked about in our metalwork section, it's imperative that you have good ventilation, combining a roof fan with floor-level vents, to prevent moisture and condensation from building up in your van.

Meeting People

Join Facebook groups, work in co-working spaces, or attend local events and meetups. Striking up a chat at a campsite can lead to brilliant stories and lasting friendships.

Campervan Internet

Mobile Hotspot: Simple and affordable, though speeds may vary and it kills your phone battery.
Mobile Router: Great if you need multiple devices online for long periods.
Starlink: A game-changer for remote spots, but you’ll need decent power and a clear view of the sky.
Public Wi-Fi: Cafés, coworks, and libraries are reliable standbys.

Rainy Days

Combat cabin fever by visiting gyms, indoor climbing walls, cinemas, or even taking scenic drives in the rain. Keep a list of cosy activities—like reading, playing an instrument, or painting—to stay entertained and uplifted when the weather turns gloomy.

It's undeniable that rainy-day claustrophobia is a challenge when living in a van. We find that cultivating a certain amount of zen, a satisfaction with a slower lifestyle, is a big part of vanlife's attraction. Reading, art, and meditation can't be beaten on rainy days, but it's important to have options when the restlessness begins to take hold. A portable projector makes watching films in your van a pleasure, and board games easily eat up the rainy hours.

How to Park Up and Camp Responsibly

Living on the road often involves sleeping in unfamiliar spots, whether that’s a quick, one-night pit stop or a remote wild camping adventure. It’s all about balancing safety, legality, and local tolerance while making sure you leave no trace.

‘Park and Sleep’ vs. Wild Camping

Park and Sleep: Staying in typical parking areas (like rest stops, car parks, or streets) for a single night to break up a long drive.
Wild Camping (Boondocking): Sleeping off-grid in natural or rural spots, away from designated campsites.

Legality and enforcement of these practices varies dramatically based on location:

The United States

Parking Lots (Walmart, Cracker Barrel, etc.): Often allow overnight parking as a courtesy, though some forbid it with explicit signage.
Highway Rest Stops: Governed by each state; many allow short stays (e.g. 8 hours), provided you don’t cause issues or overstay.
Truck Stops: Commercial facilities built for overnighting—usually welcoming, with no strict time limit.
Street Parking: Highly dependent on local rules; ticketing can happen if sleeping in your vehicle is prohibited.
Public Lands (BLM, US Forest Service): Generally encourage dispersed camping, so long as you don’t block roads or harm the environment.
National & State Parks: Boondocking outside official campsites is usually disallowed, and rangers may issue fines to anyone caught.

The United Kingdom

Car Parks: Many impose ‘no overnight’ rules, sometimes enforced with gates and security patrols.
Motorway Services: Often a safe bet for overnight stays, though a fee may apply; more services in the UK are adopting the European ‘aire de service’ model, offering camper-friendly facilities.
Laybys: A popular roadside option, though “no overnight parking” signs are increasingly common. Enforcement tends to be lighter in rural spots.
Street Parking: Can be complicated due to by-laws and local restrictions. Vanlifers are often unwelcome in busy urban areas, but quieter backstreets or industrial zones may be more tolerant.
Wild Camping in England & Wales: Technically illegal without permission, as all land is owned. Enforcement varies by region, but national parks and areas like National Trust land are especially strict.
Wild Camping in Scotland: Far more lenient, with laws more akin to those in Nordic countries.

Europe

Generally More Permissive: Nordic, Baltic, Southern, and Eastern European countries often allow overnight parking in rest areas, laybys, and designated motorhome stops. Urban areas remain stricter, but it’s easier to find secluded spots.
Exceptions: The Netherlands, Belgium, and Denmark (densely populated) and some parts of Switzerland are tighter on overnight parking, but many scenic mountain tracks offer leniency.

Tips for a Successful Park and Sleep

Choose designated overnight-friendly spots (motorhome rest stops, truck stops) wherever possible.
Seek out quieter, out-of-the-way places in both urban and rural locations if an official campsite isn’t an option.
Never block roads, gates, or essential access routes.
Stay safe: if you’re alone, avoid sketchy industrial parks or dimly lit areas.
Factor in the local climate and terrain—summer shade or winter sun can make a difference to comfort and energy needs.
Ask permission from landowners or businesses whenever feasible.
Use apps like Park4Night, The Dyrt, Harvest Hosts, and Brit Stops to find vetted spots.
Prioritise respect for locals: keep noise down, avoid sprawling out with awnings and chairs in busy areas, and move on if asked.

Image: stellplatz.info

Vanlife Ethics

Vanlife is on the rise worldwide, and with it comes growing resistance from locals, landowners, and authorities. Maintaining a good relationship between the communities you pass through is crucial to preserving the freedom of the lifestyle.

Leave No Trace

Your park-up should look exactly as it did before you arrived. That means no litter, no fires outside existing fire pits, and absolutely no evidence of toileting unless it’s properly managed. A composting toilet or portable bag system makes things much simpler.

Respect Your Surroundings

Avoid driving over wildflowers or churning up mud with spinning tyres. Don’t drain water—of any kind—within 30 metres of a water source. Keep gates and footpaths clear, and never park in spots reserved for trucks or electric vehicles.

Image: lnt.org

Choose Your Spot Wisely

Service stations, lay-bys, and truck stops aren’t designed for sprawling campsites, so refrain from winding out your awning or settigng out chairs unless there’s ample room or it’s an established campervan area.

Be Considerate

Late-night music, running generators, and glaring spotlights disturb wildlife and anyone else nearby. If you’re in a ‘grey area’ and want to avoid scrutiny, keep a low profile by drawing the curtains and blending in.

Don’t Cause a Scene

If asked to move on, do so graciously. Confrontations risk fuelling the anti-vanlife sentiment we’re trying to avoid.

Over time, you’ll hone your instinct for decent park-ups—start with apps like The Dyrt, Harvest Hosts, Brit Stops, and Park4Night for pointers. With consideration, respect for nature, and mindful behaviour, we can continue enjoying the open road and help ensure it remains welcoming for all.

Our full article on park-ups and wild camping contains much more information on this aspect of adapting your van for vanlife, including:

The legal aspects of free park-ups and wild camping around the world
Tips for finding park-ups
Online services and apps
Tips for staying safe and discreet
Being a responsible vanlifer

Storing Your Campervan

Storing your campervan properly when you're not using it protects it from theft, weather damage, and the everyday wear and tear that causes depreciation. Whilst many store a car on the street without much fuss, a campervan’s greater value and size make dedicated storage a more appealing option. Whether you’re short on space at home or seeking enhanced security, there are a few main types of campervan storage solutions to explore:

Image: verdirvboat.com

Campervan Storage Yards

These businesses specialise in accommodating large vehicles, with ample hard standing, wide aisles for easy manoeuvring, and varying levels of security such as fencing, gated access, CCTV, and sometimes security patrols.

Self-Storage Facilities

Typically catering to household or office items, some also provide campervan units. Options include indoor containers, warehouses, or adjacent outdoor yards. Urban locations can make self-storage convenient for city dwellers.

Long-Term Car Parks

Often centrally located in cities, these may not match the security of a dedicated facility but can be cost-effective. Councils and private operators (like NCP or Q-Park) often offer seasonal passes.

Specialised Campervan Storage Services

Beyond secure storage, these may provide cleaning, servicing, winterisation, and even pickup and drop-off. You’ll pay more but enjoy a comprehensive, campervan-focused service.

Image: stondonstorage.co.uk

Costs depend on location and amenities, ranging from as little as £30 a month to around £80 for more premium offerings. Self-storage operators often provide quotes on request, whilst long-term parking can vary widely, sometimes exceeding £150 per month in central urban areas.

Before leaving your campervan in storage, you should:

Clean inside and out, removing all food and rubbish
Inspect for damage and make repairs
Empty and clean the fridge, water tanks, and waste tanks
Top off fuel, check tyre pressure, and disconnect batteries
Secure windows and vents, and consider pest control measures

With the right storage choice and proper preparation, you’ll ensure peace of mind—freeing you to enjoy your campervan all the more when you’re ready to hit the road again. Our full articles on campervan storage offer lots of tips on finding campervan storage, including recommended facilities in popular areas of the UK and US, as well as app and subscription solutions.

The Adventure Awaits

That wraps up our ultimate van conversion guide. Now, we leave it to you to get out in your newly converted van and make vanlifers everywhere proud. For an easy-to-follow, comprehensive course that takes in everything we've discussed here, check out our Van Conversion Mastery Course.

Our Van Conversion Mastery Course is a comprehensive, step-by-step guide to the entire process of converting a van, including:

Resources for planning your conversion
Supplies lists
Wiring, plumbing, carpentry, and metalwork diagrams
Video courses for all conversion stages

Start your van conversion right with the Van Conversion Mastery Course.

Take the Course

Alternatively, if you prefer physical media, Shane's fantastic book is a comprehensive companion for the whole van to campervan conversion journey.

We'd love for you to stay in touch by joining the Van Conversion Newsletter. You'll get a free electrical diagram when you sign up, and you'll stay up to date with everything happening on the site, including:

New guides and articles,
Sales on our e-shop,
Gear reviews
Travel inspiration
Community highlights

Finally, we'd love to hear your stories from your build and your travels. What was the hardest part of the build? What unique solutions did you come up with to suit your needs? Where will you go first?

Share your headaches, experiences, builds, and road trip plans with us on Instagram at @the.van.conversion. We can't wait to see where your new van will take you.

The Ultimate Van Conversion Guide

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Build Stages

Planning Your Van Conversion

Legal and Insurance Requirements

Special Considerations for DIY Conversions

​​​​​​Types of Coverage

Factors Affecting Insurance Costs

Recommended Providers

​Budgeting Your Van Conversion and Choosing the Right Base Van

​​​​Rent First

​​​​​Budgeting

The Best Vans for Conversion

​​​​​​​Finding a Solid Used Van

​​​Project Management and Planning Your Van Conversion

​​​Laying Out Your Conversion

Daily To-do Lists

​​​​​​Essential Productivity Tricks

​​​Designing the Layout for Your Van Conversion

​​​​​Five Steps to Van Design and Planning

​​​​​Key Considerations

Testing the Layout

Metalwork

Supplies List

Identify Rust Severity

Installing Windows for a Mobile Home

Other Factors

Window Covers

DIY vs. Professional Installation

Skylights & Unpowered Vents

Shore Power (Mains Hook-Up)

Solar Cable Entry Gland

Water Inlet Socket

Gas Filling Point

Awnings

How They're Installed​

How They're Installed

How They're Installed

Energizing your Van Conversion

​

Electrical System

AC vs. DC

Volts, Amps, and Watts

Wire Basics

Voltage Drop

AC vs. DC Fuses

Choosing the Right Fuse for DC Circuits

Fuse Boxes and Consumer Units

Key Points for Proper Grounding

Lead-acid vs. Lithium

Charging Profiles

Solar System Basics

Fixed vs. Portable Panels

Series vs. Parallel Wiring

Panel Maintenance and Lifespan

Inverters

Stay Warm in Winter and Cool in Summer

​

Insulation

Key Areas When Soundproofing a Mobile Home

Best Soundproofing Materials

Convection

Radiation

Moisture Control: Do I Need a Vapor Barrier in My Van?

​How to Install Floor Insulation in a Converted Campervan

The First Step to Making Your Van Feel Like Home

​

Flooring, Framing, and Cladding

Drinking, Cleaning, and Waste Water On The Go

​

Water Systems

Water Pumps

Manual Pumps

12V Diaphragm Pumps

Hot Water and Showers

Filtration Types

Types of Campervan Toilets

Cooking and Cosiness in Your Home on Wheels

​

Types of Coverage

Budgeting Your Van Conversion and Choosing the Right Base Van

Rent First

Budgeting

Finding a Solid Used Van

Project Management and Planning Your Van Conversion

Laying Out Your Conversion

Essential Productivity Tricks

Designing the Layout for Your Van Conversion

Five Steps to Van Design and Planning

Key Considerations

How They're Installed

How to Install Floor Insulation in a Converted Campervan

Installation Steps

Overhead Lockers

Supplies List

Staying Clean

The United States